Jaded

The jade is from the beaches around Greymouth. Enjoyed a very nice day there, swimming, hiking and jade hunting with some people from the hostel, prior to watching a sunset into the ocean. Such a nice way to finish a great day.

After a few days in Arthur's Pass, I decided to hitch-hike to Christchurch on a really cold morning. Greg from Auckland picked me up, drove me thru some stunning scenery, bought me a coffee and dropped me off in Cathedral Square. Spent the gorgeous afternoon walking the Avon River and tooling about the Botanical Gardens, easily one of the nicest I've ever seen. Spent a few days in town, did some museums, some walking, a full laundry including footwear, a full day off reading and a night watching the NZ All-Whites attain a spot in the soccer World Cup.

Monday, I got up nice and early and walked the 54 kms to Amberley to do some Wwoofing on Stone Circle farms with Michelle and John (friends of Sue Green's sister Judy). Google Maps done me wrong...I was only supposed to walk 47 kms, but Google had a back road in Amberley extending thru an area that it definitely does not. I even spent an afternoon on the bike trying to find an old path or lane that excuse such an error, but no luck.

Spent the next week or so up weeding at 7:00 AM, outdoors all days, eating mostly organic (I kept some snack treats in my trailer and treated myself to fish&chips on Friday) and generally enjoying a fair bit of time to myself, mostly reading a few books. All this travelling can wear you down a bit, especially when you are in shared accommodations most nights. A real treat to be by myself for a few days.

Will walk back in Christchurch tomorrow, spent a few days with Sue's sister Judy, then fly to Auckland and see if I can swing a Chinese visa before leaving NZ. The trip to Invercargill fell thru, and with it, a possible shimmy up to Queenstown and/or Mt. Cook. Would rather get the Chinese visa and spent a few days walking the Coromandel Peninsula, a place I had to skip to even get to South Island.

No matter what you decide to see in New Zealand, you are skipping over amazing things. I did not have any 'have-to's on the trip and will keep that frame of mind. I don't like rushing or chasing. I enjoy scenery, scents, walking, hostels, new people, other travellers, the sense of freedom.

Remembrance Day - NZ

As a charter member of the Gonzo Adventure Club, I felt that it was duty to continue the age-old tradition of hiking on Remembrance Day to somewhere very peaceful and quiet. I am here in Arthur's Pass, part of the NZ Alps and hiked up the Avalanche Peak trail, arriving at 5,000 ft in a snowstorm just before 11:00 AM on Nov.11. I called Bruce Duffy, because it is very nice to share some of these little adventures, and we were 2 of the constants on the Remembrance Day camping the past 10 years or so.

Prior to this, I was in Greymouth on the West Coast for a few days of hiking, swimming, sunsets and jade hunting. Found a big piece and will upload a picture of it soon.

Napier, Rugby, Abel Tasman and Glaciers

Spent a stunning few days in Napier at a really cool hostel on the beach. Such a relaxed town, all that Art Deco stuff and a wonderful beach. Spent 2 days walking around and swimming/reading on the beach. My roomies were Japanese and French and we spent a lot of time sitting about the back of the hostel with someone playing guitar. Tried my one really rude saying on a Swedish girl and will not do that again. It's too rude and I mangle it too much.

Off to Wellington for a few days of running and resting with the Russells. Bob's running pace after knee surgery is still quicker than my race pace, and he threw in hills to boot. We got in a nice evening in a local restaurant and Bob and I also made an evening of beers, fish&chips and rugby (Air New Zealand Cup semi-final).

The ferry across to Picton was on a gorgeous day and I settled into Nelson for a few days of hiking including Abel Tasman with the water taxis. Stunning views and a hike to remember for a long time. The hostel was again very cool (free brekkie and dessert each evening). Tough to leave these places, but nice knowing that there so many cool, funky hostels in Nz. Best part of the trip after all the natural wonders. Hiking and walking about in sub-tropical NZ in the spring is an experience of a lifetime. The scents in the air, the birds singing, the abundant foliage everywhere. Absolute magic.

Picture is taken in Taupo at a local hot-springs. Free hot pool spa on a nice little hike.

Took a bus down to Franz Josef and spent a few days hiking about the glaciers there and at Fox Glacier. Love staying where there are mountains. So cool to wake up to on a sunny day. The views are very weather dependant, so the mirror lake at Murchison did not give up it's delights yesterday. Was lucky enough to see Franz Josef from a mirror lake today.

Picture is from Picton on a stunning day



Picture is from Abel Tasman (not mine)




Ran into a few people I have met in other parts of NZ (Tom & Nora on a world-wide tour) and they were nice enough to take pics of me while I swam in a glacier pool. Easily ranks up there with the coldest water I have ever been in. Voice was slurring and arms not responding after but 5 seconds. A tad scary.

Picture is from a mirror lake by Franz Josef




Video is from Nelson , where Sophie worked for a bit

Assessing long-term backpacking

Backpacking is quite different from other modes of travelling. Long-term backpacking is another beast altogether. By backpacking, I mean all your stuff on your back and no car to stuff things in or get you around. Long-term is measured in months, not weeks. With shorter-term travel, you can cheat a bit or just suck it up and ignore things. On a longer trip, everything must get dealt with sooner or later.

I am on a long trip (2 months out West with some of that Wwoofing, some travelling about and some at relatives like sister, brother and niece, followed by 2 months in New Zealand and possibly 3 more months in getting myself back to Canada by circling the globe).

FOOD

It took me awhile to get my food setup the way I like. What to look for in the stores, what can be found in big/small stores/towns, what to carry each day. In Ireland, every little joint had little salad bars and fresh bread. Not so in New Zealand. I am getting enough fruit/veggie/protein in any one week, as consistently as possible. In my bag, I carry some utensils (hostels lack), tea/coffee/sugar, cheese, pepper/salt, some form of bread, muesli, some fruit, a few chocolate bars and water.

My breakfasts are yogurt, banana, muesli, juice and bread. Lunches are bread, cheese, fruit. Suppers are pasta/rice affairs, sometimes with meat, always with cut veggies.

Break from the routine is a sandwich shop or Asian noodle place for lunch. Food is expensive here, restaurants doubly so.

CLOTHES

I am carrying 2 shorts, 4 tops, sleep/swim/rain gear, shoes/sandals, a fleece top and nylon jacket. Very pleased with the setup. The 4th top has not been used and is for social emergencies, should I really mess up on the laundry, which I do in sinks or hostel setups as often as possible.

No real sense of missing something or dragging stuff around.

TRAVEL

Doing a lot of hitch-hiking (pleasant surprise), a decent amount of walking and buses in and out of cities. Booking hostels in advance if they involve Friday/Saturday. Booking online and using the option to Txt me instead of chasing down printer access.

Happy enough with how much overhead this entails and how long I stay in places, at least 2 nights. I like hitch-hiking into a town and finding a hostel, getting to know the place, find the Info place and a good grocery store, then touristing.

The Wwoofing is hard to match up with your own schedule, but really, has been working out well. My itinerary is quite flexible.

Trying to deal with airlines/embassies/visas is always a real pain. Outside your own country, the very idea makes me flustered.

INTERNET

I have found lots of access, just the cost is too high, averaging $4-5 an hour. They even charge for WiFi, so your own PC is not cheaper, just more convenient. If I had an open Data device (like iPhone), it would work out cheaper and more convenient. Damn! I miss reading online a lot. Realistically, I would like an hour online, everyday.

BUDGET

With the Wwoofing, this has been working out as expected. That being said, the little stash of cash just keeps diminishing. The surprises have been internet, toiletries and misc stuff: flash drives/museums. With flexibility and last-minute decisions comes higher travel costs. It's a pain, but I really enjoy the floppy front-end of my travelling.

People do travel cheaper than me, but I am happy with my price points.

WWOOFING

Glad I Wwoofed in Canada before coming here. each setup is quite different and while there are usually frustrations along the way, overall, the experiences are quite positive. The work I did staying with the Maori family was the worst job ever, yet, for the week, it was all balanced out by the very positive, cool cultural experiences. That is why I am travelling, for the new experiences.

SOCIALIZING

I have been sleeping in dozens of places and setups (beach, deck, hostel, couch, bed, plane, etc) the past few months, meeting new people everyday (hostels, hitch-hiking, Wwoofing). I enjoy the whole routine and have made some new email/Facebook friends along the way. Some people, you just click with. I am interested in how people get through their lives and have found people interested in my take on the world.

I am comfortable with my age and past experiences and don't feel that age has too much effect on my social interactions. The only real exception is bars. I have been in a few. Besides the expense I am not a late night, crazy, boozing person and never really was. I have been in a few situations like this, but not for long.

OVERALL

I feel that I am the right person at the right time for this trip. I enjoy the lifestyle, my body is enjoying the stresses I am putting on it. These many situations force me to be much more flexible in dealing with all situations, always a good thing. It all feels good.

I have been lucky enough to get in a bunch of hiking, running, biking, swimming and even some surfing. Some of the hikes have been astounding (Comox, Tofino, 90 mile, Tongariro).

Now, the real question is how to get back to Canada, Do I do what it takes to get thru China ($$$ and visa concerns). Do I have what it takes to backpack India?

Who knows. The doors are still open. The road beckons

Tongariro Crossing

Left Mount Maunganui to hitch to Rotorua. Nuce ride in a truck (my first)with Kui, a really nice guy from Fiji. We exchanged emails as his son is headed to Korea to teach English after Xmas. Stayed with Maureen and Geoff in Rotorua. Maureen is Ralph Rickard's sister. I met them in Halifax when they were there for Amy's wedding. So cool to visit people in completely different surroundings. Had a great visit and got in some hiking in the Redlands park, including a sunny dip in Blue lake (there is a cool spot you can see Blue lake and Green lake at the same time). The next day we spent the morning in the hot spa pools and they drove me to Huka Falls (amazing flow), then Taupo.

Trying to recover from first illness of the trip, a big, bad chest cold. First time ill since I left Dal, so can't complain. No fun to be sick while travelling. Just want to sit in a big, hot tub with a radio and beer.

Got to do the Tongariro Crossing while in Taupo. Nice big volcano hike. Weather at the top did not allow for sitting around and taking vista photos (sleet, high wind and freezing temperatures), but was very cool, nonetheless. Would do the hike again in a second.

Serendipity

There are lots of styles of travelling. Many of the hostels here are full with people who buy cars and travel for a few months. Makes many tasks easier, some harder. Dad a few friends whose cars have broken to the tune of over $1000. My style is just plain backpacking...some walking, hitchhiking and buses to deal with cities. Food is a problem. If I stay in a hostel for a few days, I can buy decent groceries. I have to use up most of my food at each stop. I carry bread, cheese, tea and muesli all the time (and have had to use it as the main meal).

Not knowing where I am going or when can be a bit more expensive. Tough to book flights, hostels etc at the last minute. Of course, the other side of this coin is flexibility. Each day is wide open.

My brother Jon and I have had quite a few discussions about serendipity, where good things happen as a result of your openness to let anything happen. A few examples:

Hitch-hiked away from first Wwoofing farm in Kaingaroa at 7:30 in the morning, heading towards Cape Reinga (top of North island, about 120 kms away). The plan: drop my Dal keyring there and get to a hostel later on. I received a number of rides, including a Dutch girl who invited me Wwoofing in Bay of Islands and a number of locals. At Waitiki landing, there people came up to me an offered me a ride. They had seen me the day before swimming in Doubtless Bay (during the tsunami warning) and we had chatted for a bit. I end up with a ride up to the Cape, lunch, a swim in Toputuputu Bay, a visit to the sand dunes, a ride to the remote hostel in Henderson Bay (It just opened, I am first backpacker of the season) and an invitation to visit them in Christchurch, which I will do when I visit Sue's sister, Judy.

A very cool day that just fell into place. The next few days I spent walking, swimming and surfing in 90 mile beach.

My last week with a Maori family was serendipity. While I was back in Kaingaroa, I received an email from a host. She had seen my profile and was asking if I wanted to work in Tauranga. I said yes and ended up with a cultural experience as a highlight of my visit to New Zealand so far. Spending the week with a local Maori family was quite the experience. A very social, interactive culture. Those big, dramatic faces that can look so intense really light up when they are smiling. Everyone I met was very kind, friendly and interested in what us Woofers were doing or where we were from.

A very cool week that had no premeditation, I just replied to an email because usually hosts don't chase volunteers. Like flipping a coin, let's see what happens.

Last example: Daughter Sophie was also in new Zealand for a month. She was South, working her way North, and I was doing the opposite. We would have met in Auckland but she opted for a quicker flight back to Canada to see Michelle and get ready for Korea.

Good news for me? Looks like I will fly to Seoul to perhaps spends Christmas with Sophie in Korea. Been looking at Wwoofing sites already. If I get there, who knows. To head West, I now can look at China or India.

Like I said, this style of travelling has it's own rewards. I love the flexibility and of course, the resulting serendipity that can just fall in your lap.

Kaingaroa and 90 Mile Beach

Three weeks in New Zealand already? Somehow December seems like just around the corner. I'm still only 100+ kms from the top of North Island. What have I been doing? Walking, Wwoofing, swimming, surfing, backpacking, hitchiking, roofing, weeding, schmoozing. It has been a blast. Such a cool country to be in. Spent the first few days in Auckland, getting over jet lag, getting the phone setup, checking out buses, bars, museums and walking about. This place is expensive.

Headed up to Paihia (Bay of Islands - funky town)) for a night, then hitch-hiked over to Kaitaia for a night, then walked 20+ kms to my first Wwoofing farm. Gorgeous scenery, much like Ireland, but with low mountains and a lot more cultivation. Interesting week on the farm. Lots of horses, dogs, cats, goats, birds, mini-horses, geese, rottweilers. Allergies held up good till about 4th day, then deteriorated from the overload. Took a few days away from the farm to recover. Really loved tramping about the farm in my big rubber boots. My hosts got me to 90 Mile Beach and swimming in Doubtless Bay. All in all a pretty cool week.

Took 5 days off to backpack and had an astounding time. Will do a post about serendipity after this post. Hiked up to Cape Reinga, the sand dunes and back to Henderson Bay and stayed in a really cool hostel with great hosts. Walked 25 kms the following day and spent a few hours on 90 Mile beach (absolute heaven). Next hiked to Ahipara and the funky hostel, Endless Summer on the beach. Spent a great night partying and went surfing the next day. The local conditions had every surfer within many kms showing up in the pouring rain. Too cool.

Next day, I walked the 35+ kms to my next Wwoofing farm (still in Kaingaroa). Spent the week digging up soil that was mostly clay. Toughest physical work I've done in awhile. I was the only Wwoofer that week and stayed in a bunk-house, making my own meals. Alone except for dropping up for a glass of wine or beer with the hosts. Really enjoyed the week, and it gave me some space.

Been travelling for 3 months now and spend a lot of time in social situations. Nice to be alone with my thoughts for a few days. Next hiked to Paihia again and spent a great day. Would love to spend a full week here, but the rest of NZ beckons. Bussed to Auckland, got my phone back, my haircut, got up on the internet and news. Baseball, hockey and football don't exist here and most of my online time is emails, Facebook, hostels, buses and Wwoofing. The hitchhiking is great here. Takes a few hours to go 100 kms, usually 3-4 rides from a mix of Maori, Pakeha (non-indigenous New Zealanders) and tourists. The topography is stunning, and I'm still just peeling the wrapper.

90 Mile Beach - Heaven!

The "SHOT'!

Alex and I first met in Israel in 1977. We roomed together on Kibbutz Shefayim for a few months. We did a lot of running and reading and listening to music. As it turns out, we are both quite competitive. A good example would be the race up Masada on a very hot day. Only stupid, competitive people even think of these things.

Over the years, we have kept in touch with him visiting Halifax on his trips from Holland to California, or me visiting California. The visit before this one however, was at least 25 years ago. Sure enough, we meet up and go for a run or a hke right away. This time in was Marin headlands just over the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, followed up by Mt Tamalpais (home of MTB biking), where i was lucky enough to get stung by a bee on my lip. Off the Emergency while my lip and face puffed up like an over-pumped bicycle tube. It took a few days to settle.

On the second day of the visit, we did a long hike and swim, followed by a few beer and some horseshoes. We are old enough now not to be competing on hikes and runs, the parts don't like it anymore (of course, I'm just being nice to my host). As the horseshoe competition heated up, we ended up with the scenario you see above.

A ringer, on top of a leaner, on top of a ringer. Four great shots. Unfortunately, Alex had the upper hand on this finish.

Og course, for the day, I was the ultimate game to break all ties. With a ringer, of course...

Il Trovatore and Samurai Warriors

Every year for my birthday, my Mom gives me enough $$ to buy something nice for myself. The past 4 years, it has been Opera tickets. This year I was lucky enough to get front row balcony for Verdi's Il Trovatore - The Troubadour. Just so happened, it was opening nite for the San Francisco Opera season. Red carpet, tuxedos, limos everywhere, valet parking, reception at City Hall after the event.

Of course, yours truly is backpacking and carrying all his clothes in a small gunny-sack. I looked high and low, but there was no tux to be found. I showed up in my current best finery: t-shirt, shorts and sandals. Likely the only person there with any parts of this combo, much less the entire outfit. People commenting on my dress code included the box office, ushers and patrons on either side of me. My saving grace was my NWZ schtick. Everyone loved that story.

The house was the biggest and fanciest in awhile. There were more people behind me in the balcony than in the Gaity Theatre Opera in Dublin (which of course, served Guinness at the break...still my opera house hi-lite).

The set design and lighting blew me away. Like being at a big Broadway play, I am always amazed at what people can do with limited space and unlimited imagination. The singing was the strongest I've ever seen. I even have some of the arias (sung by Kiri Te Kanawa- New Zealand). Opera at times makes me very happy. This was a great opera and a memorable evening.

I followed this up with a day at the Asian Museum for the Samurai Exhibit. I have read Shogun (James Mitchener) 4 times and Gai-Jin twice. To see signed Samurai swords from 300 years ago was intense. Today, I walked over to the annual free Opera in the Golden Gate Park. San Francisco is a great town, so many cool neighbourhoods.

Tomorrow, I will walk to and over the Golden Gate Bridge, then it's off to the Giants and Rockies baseball game to watch them fight for the wildcard in the playoffs. Tuesday, I get to hang out with Alex and Judy for 3 days before flying to NWZ. Alex and I were roomies on a kibbutz in Israel in the 70's and have visited each other numerous times. He is the big Dutchman I 'imported' into the US a few times.

While this type of big city travelling is poking big holes in my budget, it sure is a lot of fun.

Tofino, Tofino, Tofino!

Been a busy week, beating up my aging body. Comox Glacier, Mount Washington, walk Ucluelet to Tofino, surfing and some pretty serious partying. I couldn't afford to stay in Tofino anymore. Spending too much money, drinking too much beer and running out of time.

Went to Port Alberni last Tuesday. Great hostel (Fat Salmon), but did not like the town that much. Took the Frances Barkley ferry out to Ucluelet on the West Coast. Wonderful way to spend a morning. Mountains all around, salmon feeding everywhere, lots of sport fisherman boats and remote camps everywhere. Was lucky enough to see my first whales (humpbacks with the tail fin). Very exciting

Hostels were full in Ucluelet (I hate booking ahead, but really, it makes sense in small towns), so I ended up in a nice B&B. Tooled about town, but did not go on the Wild Pacific trail. Too beat up from Monday still. Dinner was on a ferry docked in the harbour. Gorgeous weather, nice chatting with non-backpacking tourists.

Left B&B at 6:00 AM in the dark and pouring rain for the 42 km walk to Tofino. Tough decision. Wanted to sleep in, have brekkie and take the bus. Weather improved all day. Did a few kms of walking on the beach between Wikkaninish and Long Breach, otherwise on the road. I can walk 30 kms quite easy, the last 10 seem to beat me up a lot. Mucho pain to spread around. New backpack performed well. Nice to have all that cushioning and weight adjustments.

Tofino was great. Love the hostel (Whalers). Great physical layout for socializing, right on the water so we got in a big bonfire on Thursday nite. Travellers from all over the globe hanging out, drinking beer and speaking English (thank goodness). Friday nite was a great songfest inside the hostel (mucho rain outside). Decent sized crowd off to the bars after midnight. My roomies partied till 5:00 AM. I stopped at 1:00. Don't remember ever having that kind of jam.

Went to see Barbara (from the Wwoofing farm Ironwood) on Saturday morning at the market, then off surfing for the afternoon. I am now a surfer. Got another injury (bruised ribs) and spent mucho time on top of my board. Yeah! The coaches were giving me suggestions about where to place my hands on the pop-up (not on the side rails) and what to do with my feet (point sideways, like on a snowboard). Surfing is a lot more fun on top of the board. I can see why people get addicted.

Saturday nite, my roomies again went till 5:00 AM (I peeled at 1:00 again). Derek had just moved to Tofino and his first shift on the new job was for 5:45 AM. These people are serious. Mucho hilarity for so early in the day.

Back In Courtenay now, preparing to blow this popsicle stand. Daughter Sophie and I talk on the phone, she has opted to skip Korea and will be working in Nelson, New Zealand later this week! Weird. Will have to go see her, as we will be in the same country. Maybe visit for Emily's birthday in November. That would be cool.

Life is good.



Comox 2009

Mount Washington

Last week, I was lucky enough to get up on the Comox Glacier. You could see Mount Washington about 30+ kms away and a tad lower. Back east, I have been lucky enough to climb Mount Washington in New Hampshire numerous times, and last year even got to run up the beast.. I always wanted to bike up it as well, but they only allow that during their annual race.

What's the answer? Bike up Mount Washington here of course. I got that done today on another sunny day in Paradise. Great to leave the house with a lunch, some water and a fleece top. The ride from Courtenay took an hour. The slog up 16 kms of 8-12% grade took a tad over 2 hours more. I was on a mountain bike that is a tad small for me and has a big cushy, bouncy saddle, so a decent percentage of my effort was not directed towards getting me up the mountain. In low gear pretty much all the way.

Looking back on Comox Glacier was too cool. My quads still hurt from that hike. Body parts don't recover like they did in my 30's.

The ride down took less than 30 minutes and was a blast. Had to peddle 2 small sections, the rest was easy flow and at times a tad speedy (like when your helmet wants to lift off your head)

I'm about ready to blow this popsicle stand and go hike Repack Mountain just north of San Francisco. It's where mountain biking got it's start. I was there hiking with Dutch buddy Alex Oppedijk back in the late 70's (or early 80's, the detail escapes me)

Dipper buys new gear! Stock market in turmoil

It has been intimated that I keep things past their due date. Cars, clothes, sports gear, flotsam and jetsam. Well no more! Thanks to the generosity of the Gonzo 'croo at the various going-away parties, I had a tidy stash of $$$ that was supposed to be spent in some unique way. Me buying new gear is pretty unique, so here goes.

In the picture above, Tevas, shorts, a fleece top and...GASP! a new knapsack. I know, not a big deal to most of the planet, but to me, a serious personal growth issue. I had the original 40 liter bag since 1979 and it has seen it's share of fun. I even lent it a few times to people travelling oveseas and down south. I get attached to all my stuff and especially my gear.

The average age of the gear that is being replaced is 15 years. Just take a second to let that sink in. 15 years. I like to be the last person to use anything I own. You'll never see me hawking stuff at the Canada Day Marina party.

The new bag is a Deuter, and I love it already. I could go into minute detail about why I love it, but hey! I hope to have this bag for years, so you'll get to hear my story somewhere along the line.

So, thanks again to those who contributed to my new look.

Comox Glacier

Wow!

I first saw the Comox Glacier in the late 70's. Wanted to go up then but other than day-hiking in Switzerland, had not spent any time up in mountains. Of course, once the Gonzo Adventure Club started hiking, these things became possible. Saw the Glacier again in 2007, but my travel list was quite full. Relatives to see for the first time, bungy-jumping, surfing, floatplanes and hot springs took up my time.

Out to visit family again on my way to NWZ and I can see the Glacier from my sister's house. I HAVE to get up that beast. My sister did her thing and next thing you know I'm on a waiting list for a 3 day hike. The list doesn't move for a month, but my contact (Ken Rodonet) is nice enough to hook with up with a private hike that will take just the one day. Excellent. I like a challenge. As it turns out the challenge was a 14 hour dayhike that we pushed a little and did in 12. Yousa! Longest dayhike up a mountain before was maybe 9 hours. Those few extra hours have a cost. I feel like hamburger all over.

We meet up the night before the hike and drive 2 hours to the trailhead to campout. The road requires a 4 wheel drive and the a long wheelbase as there are dozens of de-certified culverts along the way. Any one of them would swallow my sister's car whole. My fellow hikers were an experienced, multi-talented, accomplished 'croo (Will Wright, Linda, Bob, Loren, George and Tim). People had travelled and hiked and climbed all over the world. They knew Vancouver Island's mountains and caves inside out. I was pretty sure that we could handle any situation that might occur.

Up before dawn to pack up and start hiking at first light (6:00 Am). It took 2 hours to top the ridge and we climbed a solid 2000 feet in that time frame. Lots of ongoing chit chat and a few breaks for water and clothing adjustments. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and very clear with a light, cool breeze. Hike leader Will pointed out a lot of neighbouring peaks and lakes. We could see for many kilometers. The mountains here are higher and newer than back east, and they have snow!

There were a lot of little tricky bits on this climb, some including ropes for handholds. Definitely a bit more challenging than Mount Washington in New Hampshire. It took a full 7 hours to hit the top of the glacier. 7 hours! That's a full day for me. Time to crack a few beers. Oddly enough, I had a Tuborg with me, as I love to celebrate peaks with a beer, but with 5-6 hours of hiking left, I decided to leave the little canned joy in my knapsack. So much for my old trailname - Tuborg.

Of course, by new-ish trailname is Dipper. I WILL swim anywhere. I wasn't going to miss this opportunity, and got in a chilly submersion in a little pool on top of the glacier plateau (5000+ ft). Didn't go for the one with ice still in it. Be-still my heart.

The hike back was over 5 hours. I figure my knees gave out at about 3 hours and my quads the last hour or so. I was wearing my water shoes, not the best choice for hiking period. They slid around a bit and have the best foot contact at times.

We went out for dinner, schmoozed a bit and then it was back to my sister's. I fell asleep on the couch, then in the tub with water in it, in the tub with no water in it, on the bed in my skivvies, then finally in the bed itself.

Seize the day? I certainly did that!

Elderly man visits Fanny Bay

I just spent 2 weeks Wwoofing for Barbara and Bryne Odegard at Ironwood Farm in Fanny Bay. It was a very rewarding time that will have an even more positive effect on me over time. Outdoors all day, lots of sun, picking, weeding and planting. I finished off most days with a run, a beer and an outdoor shower. We ate outside on the deck, the meals were abundant, the desserts amazing and the conversations with the hosts and other Wwoofers ranged from the silly to the sublime.

Over the 2 weeks, I shared space with people from New Zealand, B.C, Manitoba, Czech and Germany. Everyone had done quite a bit of travelling already in their lives and there were many great stories. Backpackers tend to be a positive, chill, resourceful crowd. Wwoofers are willing to work all day for room&board, so they will always have an interesting life story.

What makes Ironwood special is the hosts Barbara, Bryne (and Barbara's Mom, Oma, a life-force in her own right and the maker of desserts to die for). They have hosted 500-600 Wwoofers over the years, This means that every week or so they introduce another 3-4 people into the extended Ironwood family. People from all over the world, speaking many different languages, with different cultural backgrounds and life experiences. How cool is that? Barbara and Bryne work harder than anyone I have ever met and yet are also 2 of the coolest, accepting, attentive people I have met as well. Their organic farm may get smaller over the years, but I certainly hope that they continue to host Wwoofers for many years to come.

Being at Ironwood is really a life-changing experience. If you are a traveller, you are looking for something. You can find it at Ironwood.

Grouse Grind

Just spent the last few days in Vancouver, visiting an old friend (Jim McDougall) that I knew from high school. We also lived together in Halifax and on a kibbutz in Israel back in the 70's. Man, time just keeps moving doesn't it? On Monday, I had the day to myself, so figured to just walk from downtown Vancouver to Stanley park, and then maybe over the Lion's Gate bridge. It was a gorgeous, sunny day, if a tad warm (as in extended heat wave in the mid-30's). The walk went well and I ended up on Capilano Road, trying to sneak into see the famous bridge ($30 to walk a bridge not on my list of tourist activities). I walked up to Capilano River Park and hiked down (way down) to the water for a bracing swim, then tried to brook my way back to the infamous bridge. Not a lot of luck there. The water was low, but not that low. There were a few cross-chasm walking bridges in the Park, so I contented myself with that.

Back on the road, I made my way up to Grouse Mountain and decided to the Grouse Grind just had to be done. I had been walking 4-5 hours by then, and it was now 1:30 PM. Great time for a gruelling hike, wouldn't you say?

The first 20+ minutes were fun. Steep, but not deadly, and there was shade. I figured I'd soon see the 1/2 way mark. Well, I saw a sign, but it was the 1/4 mark, which also marked the end of the 'soft' climbing. Yowsa! It was time to hunker down, slow down and start rationing the water. The hike got brutal and just stayed that way right till the end. The middle section wiped that little smile right off my face.

Lots of people on the Grind that day. Could see 1/2 dozen people ahead and behind me most of the way up. A delicious cold Coke at the top costs $3. I had already decided that I would pay $10 if that is what it cost.

All in all, a stupid Gonzo thing to do on a seriously hot day. I suffered for the next 24 hours, no doubt about it. That being said, telling people that you hiked from downtown Vancouver to the top of Grouse Grind has a certain cachet...in my mind at least.

Judy Norbury

I just finished my first week of Wwoofing. It was a very cool experience. Working outside all day, every day, eating healthy, basic food (some of it from the garden), meeting new people, adjusting to life on the road. The last time I did anything like this, I was in Israel working on a kibbutz. Same idea, you work for room&board. Of course, I was a lot younger then and didn't have so many habits. It is good to break out of the slowly hardening mold my life has been in the past few years.

I spent the last few months reading about Afghanistan, Pakistan and the Sahara and have just started getting into India (thinking I might just have to go there). Wouldn't you know it, Judy was born there and had written a book about it. Her mother had moved there with her husband and they had lived a magical life with a big house and quite a few servants. The book was a fascinating read. To be reading about someone's life as you live with them is a unique experience. Both Judy and Ross had been back to India a few times.

It was a great week. Judy celebrated her 60th birthday. Lots of family and friends visited. I joined Ross for his weekly peace rally in Courtenay and really enjoyed helping them work on their property.

The picture above says a lot. Ross is a bicycle designer, Judy is in a wheelchair. A very cool couple.

Let your freak flag fly

3 days of music, fun and sun! What a great way to spend a weekend. I've been in B.C. almost 2 weeks. Stayed a few days with Becky and family in Victoria, then up to Courtenay to visit Michelle, spend a few days with brother Jon in Comox, see Jo-Anne and family and back to Michelle's to start checking out Woofing farms.

Michelle was lucky enough to scrounge weekend passes to the Vancouver Island Music Fest. We spent all day Saturday there, checking out various artists, doing a bit of shopping, eating and swimming. It was hot, damn hot! The weather was gorgeous all weekend. I went there Friday afternoon and was there all weekend except to sleep at Michelle's. I absorbed everything I could. Would have camped there if possible. There were musicians from all over the world and I still only saw 1/2 of them. This means that I could have gone to the festival and had just as an amazing time, seeing completely different bands. Too cool!

The event was extremely well organized. It's the festival's 15th year and there has obviously been quite a bit of talent behind the scene for those years. Everything just worked. The crowd ran the gamut from babies to aging hippies and everyone was in a mellow, friendly mood.

An amazing weekend. A special memory. Hey! I got to see Arlo and Los Lobos. Jim Byrnes and Eric Bibb. Wow! So much fantastic music.

Ready...Set...JUMP!

The planning is all done, the job is gone, the homestead is as stable as I can get it, Regina is ready to take over the running of the house and I am on my way! Who knows what the next 6-12 months will bring. One thing you can be sure of...it will not be the steady job/paycheck, cubicle-based lifestyle of the last few decades.

Christmas this year may see my nuclear family spread across the globe. Regina might be in New York for a visit, Emily might have moved from Florida to California, Sophie may well be in Korea and I will hopefully still be on the road, maybe still in New Zealand.

I have a bit of $$ that fell out in the retirement process, my health is an asset and my headspace is ready to see more of the world. I'm ready!

B.C. / New Zealand Packing list

I'm heading off to British Columbia in 2 weeks. I'll be there visiting relatives and Wwoofing until mid-September, which will be early spring in New Zealand. The knapsack I take to BC goes to NWZ, so the packing has begun in earnest. I'm sending the list to a few gear-bare keeners. If you have a comment or opinion about the list, please let me know. I can argue gear lists all day. The knapsack is what I'm wearing in the blog profile picture.

The pack will weigh 8-9 kgs out the door, everything inside the pack, including water and day-food. Basically it's 2-3 sets of clothes, rain gear, spare shoes and the ability to sleep outside in NWZ seasonal weather (down to 8-10 C) and hopefully handle a bit of rain. I only intend to be sleeping on the ground here and there as circumstances dictate.

The plan is to fly to Auckland, hitch-hike up to the top of North Island (Cape Reinga) and start walking, hostelling and Wwoofing the 1000+ kilometers to Wellington. Drop in and visit Bob Russell for a few days. Then down to South Island and Sue Green's sister for a few days, then a bit of tourist action in Milford Sound. Then the decision is return to Canada or keep flying West --- Vietnam, India and/or South Africa on my way to visit David Young in Botswana and Brian MacDougall in Egypt. If I get that far, it's maybe Israel, but Ireland for sure, then home.

Nice simple plan, not a lot of logistics. Nothing booked in advance. Everything electronic and stored in some Google app. Carrying a GSM quad-band cell phone if someone needs to get hold of me. Will check messages every few days. I'll keep this blog up-to-date every few weeks, tho not with pictures from my camera. Too techie.

CARRYING

40 liter knapsack
Small waist pouch for camera

KNAPSACK

Sleeping bag Primaloft .5 kg MEC overbag
Sleepmat Thermarest .25 kg Shoulders-to-Hips, self-inflating
Tarp/poncho (8'x5' silnylon)
Drybag (15 liter silnylon) for knapsack contents
Drybag (10 liter good quality) for clothes and electronics
Drybag (1 liter plastic) for travel books and documents
Daybag (10 liter shapeless nylon)

KITCHEN / FOOD

Spoon, breadknife, can opener
Water bottle .5 liter \ Expanding 1 liter
Multi-vitamins
1 day of light food (apple, cheese, chocolate, nuts, bread)

CLOTHES

Rain shell / Pants
Black jacket / Green light fleece / Tights
Poly skull cap / Poly gloves / Poly hats (2)
Bathing suit / Mini-towel
Wool socks (2) / Poly socks (2)
Techie tops (3) / Nylon shorts (2)
Sleep top/shorts / Cotton underwear (3)
Sandals / Sneakers

MEDICAL

Moleskin, Band-aids, alcohol gel, compression wrap, gauze, tape
Murine, asthma inhaler, Ibuprofen, pumice
Poly-Sporin, Gravol, Chlorine tablets, tweezers, scissors

TOILETRIES

Toothbrush/paste, floss, vaseline, sun lotion, chapstick
Toilet paper, hair soap, deodorant, nail clippers

ELECTRONICS

Cell phone/charger/battery-backup (buy local charger there)
Watch, wrist compass, LED flashlight, whistle, plastic mirror
Camera, Memory chips, USB memory stick
Single cell AAA radio, batteries (2 AAA, 4 AA)

DOCUMENTS

Map, travel book, hostel lists, glasses/spare, pen/pencil
Diary, family photos, photocopies of passport and drivers license, spare passport pics, Passport, MSI card, Blue Cross, Intl and NS driver licence, Vaccine record,
Pictures of all documents stored in Gmail

REPAIR

Therma-rest repair, needle/thread, duct tape
Safety-pins, velcro, cable-ties

A time for all things

I just spent 2 weeks in New York with my in-laws. My 93 year-old father-in-law was dying in the hospital and the family was doing as much as possible to provide support, as my 79 year-old mother-in-law spent every day, all day in the hospital. I spent the 4 of the first 5 days in the hospital. The off day was spent upstate with the brother-in-law and his menagerie. My father-in-law passed just before Jewish Shabbat, finally getting some peace after 2 months in the hospital attached to the cold, impersonal tools of medicine.

If you don't have a living will, write one up today. Mine is nothing fancy:

Do not resuscitate if quality of life implies permanent unconscious state or persistent vegetative state
Do not keep alive if this requires extraordinary medical support
If in doubt, pull the plug

Lots of people flew in for the funeral, which happens asap. I was very glad that both my kids made it in time. Then the family 'sits Shiva' for a week and gets some closure.

Most of my time when I visit NY is taken up with family and making sure I see all the grandkids, nieces and nephews. I try to clear off at least one full day for myself. This trip was for 2 weeks, so I got in 2 full "New York" days. I also got in a bit of running and many, many kilometers of walking. As usual, I ate more than required and drank a fair bit of beer.

My 'New York' days go like this: up and out the door before 6:00 AM, breakfast in the city at my latest diner (currently the Seinfield diner at Broadway and 112th St., formerly the Roxy on John St. down by the World Trade site). Absorb a local paper and mucho coffee. Start the ongoing vigil for access to bathrooms (parks, fast-food places, bars, big book and grocery stores). I do a LOT of walking (8-10 hours worth), a little shopping, maybe a museum and for sure a few parks. Lunch involves pizza or pastrami and a beer, as does supper. I almost always get to either the East River or the Hudson, Times Square and Washington Park, As well, I almost always take in a concert or ball game and return to Queens after midnite.

This trip, I got to see Amadou & Miriam at Webster Hall. It was an amazing show. A husband and wife from Mali, both blind. I missed them when I was in Dublin in 2006 (all sold out, I hung around for hours trying to get a rush seat), so bought the ticket early in the day. I chose this over baseball at the new Yankee stadium.

I finally got to walk the new High Line elevated park in the meat-packing district of Manhattan. This made me very happy indeed. I have been following its development for years. It is a good example of what really talented people can do with a public space. New York is filled with so many beautiful parks. Another new one for me this trip was Morningside just above Central Park.

I also got to see game 7 of the hockey finals (yea Pittsburgh) by dropping into my brother-in-law's firehouse in the Bronx. Dropping in is a bit of a misnomer. It took 1.5 hours to get there and more than 2 hours to get back. This also meant that I missed getting to a baseball game this trip and both teams had new stadiums. Such is life.

An emotionally draining trip. Good to see so much family, altho the occasion was a sad one.