Hobo Track

Around the World in 80 Beds

2010-05-01T13:59:00.027-03:00

Cake made by Helen Dixon...cake decorator extraordinaire.

The audience has filed out, the house lights are being dimmed. Time to put away the props, rest up a bit and plan for next season. The budget is broken, the parts hurt and the inside of the head resembles scrambled eggs. The exhaustion level is more psychic than physical, but is not to be ignored. I used up all my stamina credits over the last year and leaned on quite a few people at times. It's time to thank the supporting cast:

VANCOUVER ISLAND - Family Becky, Michelle, Jon, friends Mike
VANCOUVER - Friends Jim&Linda
VANCOUVER ISLAND - Wwoofers Judy&Ross, Barbara&Bryne
SAN FRANCISCO - Nice to connect with Alex&Judy after 30 years
NEW ZEALAND - Friends Bob&Laurel, Maureen&Geoff and Judy&Bruce
NEW ZEALAND - Wwoofers Paulette&Corran, Jen&Murray
NEW ZEALAND - Wwoofers Terini, John&Michelle
AUSTRALIA - Many thanks to Chuck&Flora for a great week
KOREA - Daughter Sophie and friends
CHINA - Many thanks for all the help Jiajia
INDIA - Adam, Owen, the Agra 'croo, Francisco, Tripti&Papu
QATAR - Mike&Cindy you saved my sanity. I was toast
BOTSWANA - David Young. Friends Jon, Alan, Lars, Susie and Pat
ZIMBABWE - Many thanks for everything. I owe you, Thula
SOUTH AFRICA - Roger...the man is insane
FLORIDA - Daughter Emily. I was serious toasted by now
NEW YORK - Mother-in-law Sara. She's the best

AROUND THE PLANET
=================
The last time I tried to get around the planet, Regina and I were near the end of a 6 month trip in Poland in 1981 with a visa for Russia, but not enough $$$ to take the Trans-Siberian train. We had to turn around and make our way home, heart-broken. I ended up out West later that year and actually did the mileage (40K kms) to get around the globe, just not in the right directions.

This is Jon, Michelle and Bruce in 1981, then 2009. I am stubborn, I really wanted to travel around the planet.

FAVORITE MEMORIES
=================
I kept a detailed log for the trip, mostly to help keep on a budget of about $1500-$1600 a month, including all flights. I will do a full writeup of this trip, more for my own memory space than anything else. This blog was for high-lights, so here is the short list of favorite memories:

- Leaving house with a backpack, passport and debit card
- Seeing the family. Comox Music Fest, Grouse Grind, Tofino surfing
- Wwoofing...a cool way to spend time on the planet
- Ironwood Farm. Who knew weeding was such fun?
- Floatplane from Vancouver downtown to Comox
- Comox Glacier hike. A fantastic day in my life
- San Francisco. Alex Oppedyk, friend from Israel kibbutz
- Day spent on 90 Mile beach, North Island, New Zealand
- Wwoofing a few places in Kaingaroa. Gorgeous hillsides and beaches
- Hitchiking and hostels in New Zealand. A very cool place
- Tongariro hike. A stunning day, even in the snow
- Wwoofing with Maori family. One hell of a week
- Rugby match and running with Bob Russell
- Abel Tasman hiking, Fox Glacier swimming, Arthur Pass hiking
- Walking Christchurch to Amberley...and back
- Pre-dinner cheese/beer routine with Bruce&Judy. Banks Peninsula
- Hanging out with Chuck&Flora in Sydney. The play Wicked
- Sophie and friends in Seoul. Some serious all-nite partying.
- Jeju Island. Need to go back in summertime
- Great Wall. Terra-Cotta Warriors. Lifetime highlights
- Train trips in China. Fun to connect with locals
- Smog in Xi'an. Depressing and claustrophobic. Fantastic hostel
- Guilin. A shame the weather was so lousy. Have to go back
- Hong Kong. I love this city, the trams, the food, the atmosphere
- Hong Kong. The Happy Valley racetrack. Very happy
- India. Wish I had a camera duct-taped to my head 24/7.
- Pre-pay taxi Delhi. I am scarred for life.
- Walking Delhi with Adam and Owen. Best way to see a place
- Couch-serving meetup in Delhi. All night parties are making me old
- Agra/Fatepur Sikri. One of the coolest/funnest days in my life.
- Agra. The muezzin call at 4:40 AM was a big thrill.
- Trains&Buses in India. I got religion on an over-nighter
- Varanesi. They burn dead bodies and that was not the shock.
- Airlines I hope to never fly again? Air India for one
- Qatar. Amateur nite for ex-pats. Best evening out. Terry Fox run
- The smiles I got as 'white-man walking' in Botswana.
- The ex-pat life in southern Africa
- Trip to Jon's camp in the Kalahari.
- Learning the mocorro on the Themalkane River.
- Suppertime boat trips out of the Sedia
- Golf on a home-made course at the Sedia Hotel
- Safari. As cool as you think it might be.
- Sharing space with hippos and giraffes. Too cool
- Victoria Falls. The trip, Thula, the Falls and the bungy jump.
- Soweto and the Apartheid Museum. Changed some opinions
- Having my gear strip-searched in 2 places...
- USA and Canada. Who knew?
- Emily and Matt in good ole USA.
- Coffee, donut and NY Post at the beach. Priceless!
- Passover with lots of family in New York
- Seeing the Gonzos at Kenduskaeg
- First night home. (Regina didn't change the locks).
- My bed, my beer, my tub. Priceless!

SOUVENIRS
=========

You travel around the world for 10 months, you figure you'd pick up some pretty cool stuff. Unfortunately, I didn't have much $$$, no room in the bag and..really, don't collect stuff. If anything, I am trying to purge my stuff even more than the lead up to this trip. So what do we have here?

Coins and bills from various countries. I kept the coins on purpose. The bills were leftover as I switched countries. Check out the number on the Zimbabwe bill. From China, there is a Terra Cotta warrior figure, an old coin replica and a lost army badge found in Forbidden City. The rocks are from the Great Wall and the Terra Cotta pit. The wristbands are from various countries and the hippo is from Zambia. I also have a nice piece of jade I found in New Zealand, hopefully Sophie brings it back with her.

BITE ME!!!!
===========

I tended to stay in the cheapest accommodation available, which usually meant 6-8 bed dorm rooms in hostels. This picture is from Varanasi. One of the workers had to sleep outside, as the guest lodge was full. There was one bug coil left, and I let him have it. Such is life. No idea what these bites are.

ROUGH TRIP NUMBERS
==================

Travelled 45 weeks last year and spent $$$ 18,000 during that time

- Moved forward 72,000 kms. RTW is 42,000 kms
- Sidetrip to Korea then southish to Botswana added a lot.
- Crossed equator 4 times
- Wore shorts all but 5 weeks
- Numbers from 70's and 80's were 40% travel, %30 food/beer, %30 lodging
- This trip 35% travel, 30% food/beer, 15% lodging, 15% gear, sports, culture, camera, vaccines, visas, etc, 5% misc
- Lodging lower because of friend visits and Wwoofing.
- Food lower, booze higher for same reason
- Wwoofed 6 places over 2 months
- 20 flights booked about 1 week ahead ended costing same as Oneworld RTW 4 continent, zone/date flexibility ticket
- Sports per week average: walk 22 kms, bike 8 kms, run 6 kms and hike 1 hr
- On 6 tourist trips. 3 just a bus/van, 3 van and guide (Terra Cotta $20, Jeju $40 and Safari-gift $0)

The mileage astounds me. Knew it was going to be high. Explains a lot of the burnout. On average, moved every 3-4 days

That's it! Done and DONE!

*** Posts from now on (or at least until the next trip) are:
http://bcmurphy-simplerisbetter.blogspot.com/
... where I keep working on my own headspace.

The tune is "All the Money I had is gone" by Deep Dark Woods. (Thanks Sophie)

New York, New York

2010-04-14T16:19:00.024-03:00

HAMLET..................AIDA....................LA TRAVIATA.............

Well, I got back to Botswana, spent a few days catching up and saying goodbye to the people I met, flew down to Johannesburg, did some tourist shopping finally and then flew to Dubai, Houston, Fort Lauderdale to stay with daughter Emily for a week and met the man she is living with, her boyfriend Matt. It was a quiet week for me, some light swimming, sight-seeing, meals and music with Emily and Matt and a lot of sleeping. I was so beat up and it was so nice to be back in America. First morning, it's off to 7/11 for a coffee, donut and the New York Post. Go sit at the beach an schmooze with all the other retired folk.

Next, I flew up to New York with Regina's niece on her private plane. She also got me a private car into Queen's and I got dropped off at the deli near my mother-in-law's (Sara). Pick up a few beer, the local paper and I'm in in New York! The next week was Passover (who knew this was an 8 day holiday...no bagels in the house for 8 days, just matzoh and lots of relatives. Regina flew down from Halifax, Emily and Matt from Florida.

Once the festivities died down, I spent my time working on the 2 apartments that Sara rents out, cleaning, dry-walling and painting. Just like a real job, damn-near killed me. Pizza, beer and the NY news everyday and I'm a happy man.

I was lucky enough to get to 3 operas (standing room at back of orchestra section) at the Met: Hamlet, Aida and La Traviata. Also got into the room for the Saturday afternoon quiz when the opera was being radio broadcast. I have spent the last few years listening to these same broadcasts, it was pretty cool.

This week, it is a bus up to Bangor, Maine to meet the Gonzos at the annual Kenduskeag River Race that we go to every year. I won't be racing this year (arms are noodles), but will do support like I have in the past. It will be nice to be back with the 'croo.

My New York Day
===============

When we used to visit with the kids over the years, I would always take at least one day just for myself, usually leaving the house before 6:00 AM and returning some time after midnight. I would spend the day doing New York things (Central Park, Times Square, pizza, beer, baseball, music, street food).

This week, I got to spend a day like this. Took the express bus into town and subwayed up to Broadway and 112th for breakfast at the Seinfield diner ($6). Great food, fast service, lots of coffee and very New York. Down to the Met to get in line for same-day standing opera tickets to La Traviata ($22.50), check out the new iPad at the Apple store and start heading up to the Bronx and the new Yankee Stadium. It is the home opener and they are having the World Series ring ceremony, so all the cheap seats are gone. I deal with a few people pushing tickets, but end up with a foul pole seat in the second tier ($60). I actually only have the little mesh in front of me and stop noticing it after about 1 minute.

The ceremony is Yankee heaven, Yogi Berra, Whitey Ford, movies from the last 27 World Championships. So cool. The ovations just keep growing thru all the player introductions as they present the rings. The last one of course, is for Hideki Matsuki, who is now an Angel. Of course, who is the opposing team for the home opener??? The last ring is for him, and the place is absolutely frantic. I get goose bumps just thinking about it. I love baseball games, especially in New York, so this whole day is a real blast. I treat myself to a few beers ($11 each, Yousa!) and a hot dog ($8).

The day is not done yet. I head back into town and end up in my old bike messenger neighbourhood (Madison and 54th). No luck finding the building I worked in, but I did find a great burger joint and filled up. Off to the Metropolitan Opera. I go in early so I can read the program in full detail and treat myself to a glass of bubbly ($10). I mean, really..how often do you have these kinds of days in your life? I stand out on the balcony, watching the remaining patrons file in. As usual, my dress code (or lack thereof) elicits polite comments. I give them my excuse for not backpacking with a tux and the humour seems to go down well.

The opera is so beautiful. Violetta I supposed to be Angela Gheorghiu, but she has taken ill. Her replacement was wonderful. What she lacked in high-range, she made up with a gorgeous, clear voice. The crowd obviously agreed. The music was so subtle, the set changes got big cheers. It was yet again, another magic time at the Met

OK, was 15 minutes to the express subway, bus to Sara's and get home about 1 AM, or 19 hours after I left. Back in the day, I would have finished off this little adventure with a music club like the Rodeo Bar or CBGBs. The motor runs out earlier nowadays.

I love New York!

Dr. Livingstone...I presume

2010-03-15T10:57:00.010-03:00

The young local guys are all crowded around me. They are laughing and joking and asking me "Are you really going to jump...Aren't you scared?". Scared, no, nervous yes, excited..big time. Where am I and what am I doing. Well, for that, you have to go back a bit.

Remember Grade 7 geography and the sections on Africa. Explorers tramping about and 'discovering' all sorts of things about the big continent. The story of Dr. Livingstone and the Zambesi River always struck me as very exotic. I have about 10 places in the world that strike me like that (Constantinople, Baghdad, Timbuktu, Agra, Edo, Tanganyika, Lake Titicaca, Victoria Falls, Giza).

So I am visiting my good buddy Dave in Botswana and it is only a hop, skip and jump of about 700 kms up to Victoria Falls. The draw is like a magnet. I just can't ignore it. I take off about 5:30 Friday morning and hitch-hike into Maun and hop on a local bus to Nata, about 300 kms east.

Now this little excursion can give you a good look into just who I am. I like getting going early. I like hitch-hiking. Love going to new places, enjoy hostels as much now as when I was a kid. I enjoy not really knowing what is going to happen. Let serendipity lead the day. The ride (Alex) knows my host and works at the same hospital. He passes the hospital and drives 4-5 kms out of his way to help me get the early bus. I have this kind of luck the entire trip. Is it luck or just the result of opening your brain and letting the day take shape? Who knows.

In Nata, the first bus is stuffed full, so I start looking around and see a guy ready to jump into a safari vehicle with gear, but no people. Likely a re-positioning trip. I ask him if he is going north and it is the start of a new friendship. My buddy is Thula and from Zimbabwe ... and going to Victoria Falls. I was planning to stay in Kisani, Botswana and try and book a day trip to Vic Falls, thus saving the $75 visa for Zimbabwe, but hey! Thula is going where I want to go.

In Vic Falls town, I get booked into Shoestring Backpackers, definitely a hard-party hostel. I am in a great mood. My roomies are Americans doing 4 months in Africa, a Vietnamese guy doing a 3 month trip and a Korean guy doing the same. I enjoy the pool, buy some hand bracelets from Elijah and drink a fair amount of beer.

Saturday morning, Thula drops me at the bridge over the Zambesi. It is also the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The local hustlers are all over me like a dirty shirt. Even more aggressive thatn the Vic Falls guys.. and that is saying something. No big deal, I am in a really good mood, most of the guys can handle a bit of humour, and I am actually buying some small things, as this is the end of a long trip and I won't have to slag this stuff around much longer.

From the bridge, I get my first glimpse of Victoria Falls. But that is not why I am here. Sure, I'd come just for the Falls, buy hey! They have a 100 meter bungy jump here. I can't pass that up.

So I walk over into Zambia, get all registered and gussied up in shackles and webbing and come back to have the 15 or so loc al kids all gfawking at me and trying to shake my hand. I had asked Isaiah the manager if they ever offered freebies to these kids, as the cost to them would be astronomical. He said yes, but there were never any takers. The locals think the tourists are complete loco to jump off a good bridge.

My only other bungy was in Vancouver Island and it was a mere 50 meters. Pffft! Barley worth jumping off you say. Well, in Nanaimo, I suffered from something called jelly-knees. You have the nerve to jump off, but your knees go all soft as you stare into that hole and the jump is more like a flop.

I was determined to fly out strong on this jump, especially now that I had a big contingent of locals cheering me on. Most people figure that bungy jumping hurts. No, not in any way. There is only one hard part, and that is the full second it takes to commit, bend and leap off the bridge. And make no mistake about it, 110 meters is bigger than 50 meters. That one second took it's toll. I jumped well, the knees held and the drop went quickly. But that one second was terrifying. After Nanaimo, I was extremely keen to go right back up and jump again. After Vic Falls, I was finished. That was a BIG hole to jump into. Whew!

OK. Now I am done, as high as a kite and the day stretches ahead of me. I wander over to actually look at the Falls. The site is beautiful, stunning. I am as happy as one hombre can get in one days. The trip, the friends I am making, the locals I am talking to, the scenery, the getting to an exotic place on the earth, the bungy. Oh My! What a day!

Later, I end up at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Old style elegance, with a view of the bridge and Falls. I also meet up with Thula and we work on his safari website for an hour or so, have a beer and agree to meet on Sunday to start me back to Botswana. I will be doing web-based stuff for him from Canada when I get back.

On Sunday, I take a car, then gypsy cab, hitch-hike, bus, bus, combi and macorro canoe to get back to Maun. It has been one hell of a weekend. I am quite pleased with myself.

View from Hotel

Victoria Falls - The Bungy Jump

Victoria Falls - The Tour

Botswana Bayou

2010-03-11T09:37:00.019-04:00

I've more time in Botswana yet, but it has been a busy few weeks. Buddy Dave meets me at the airport, we walk over to Bon Arrive (Maun is a small place) for a welcome beer and I meet a number of people who I will interact with over my time here. Klaus who runs the joint, Allan who runs Sedia Hotel, Jon who will be one of my hosts and will take me into his camp in the Kalahari and Dapanhi , a Finnish guy who dies in a car accident the next day. We all play golf on Allan's home-made, 4-hole course at the Sedia and spend the day eating and drinking beer. Welcome to Botswana

MAUN, the Sedai Hotel and the THAMALAKANE
=========================================

I have been staying in various places along the Thamalakane River and been out on a fair number of boat and canoe (macorro) trips. Lots of birds, wildlife, a hippo, some alligators. We go out just before sunset. Just magic. I have been doing some web-based work for Allan at the Sedia and have had my share of food/beer on his coin, plus a few nights in one of the rooms. Nice way to spend time

KALAHARI
========

Jon has a game farm that he is building in the Kalahari. It's about 9 kms by 4 kms. I was lucky enough to visit it and start seeing some wildlife, like zebras and impalas. It was a tough few days.

LOCAL WEDDING
=============

David is a food friend of a local man (Monks) and we were invited to his wedding as special guests. Very cool way to spend time.

DELTA SAFARI - Trip of a Lifetime
==================================

An African Safari. What can you say. Cannot tell you how happy I was for this to happen. It was as cool as you think it would be and more. The view of those open savannahs and the variety of wildlife. Just magic. Memories to last a lifetime. We had a great little 'croo. The safari managers, an exceptional guide, 4 porters and of course a gaggle of Canadians (Nova Scotians, no less...david, me, Susan and Pat)

Botswana Safari

Free...... Nelson Mandela

2010-03-04T09:04:00.005-04:00

Flying into Johannesburg with very mixed feelings. have always wanted to come here, yet the city is known to be quite dangerous to those on foot in the downtown area. Hard to believe I will visit a place and not go downtown...baut that is what happened. I figured once I got the lay of the land, the reality would no be as bad as reported. Unfortunately, all signs pointed to staying away from the downtown, even in daylight. Too weird.

My purpose here is to get to Botswana, so may not see much of South Africa. This is too bad, but this has been true throught this trip. Everywhere I go, I am missing things. I tend to focus on what I see, not what I miss.

The more you travel, the less you it actually seems to be. I've been on the raod 8 months, travelled mucho kilometers and really am just chicken-scratching my way around the planet

Stayed at a funky hostel and did a trip to the Apartheid Museum and a small walking tour of a Soweto slum. The museum setup the slum very well. I do not like the concept of canned tours and certainly not a slum, but somehow this all worked very well.

The Apartheid Museum blew me away. I have been aware of the news out of South Africa for many years, but the reality doesn't really hit home.I knew Stephen Biko died in detention, but really, what did that mean to me? The reality, scale and scope of apartheid (especially in the years prior to all the laws passed in the late 40's) is breathtaking. Like a slow forced genocide. Not unlike what is done is so many other places in the planet at any one time. Humans can be astoundingly cruel to each other.

Our guide introduced the 3 of us to his friend that lived in one of the many Soweto slums. Soweto's population is around 4 million people, obviously not all slums, but also with no real downtown, industry, etc. It was the SouthWesternTownship and was created to keep a large population close enough to Jo'burg to work there, but not actually live there. Our guide was trying to show up 2 thinsg, the conditions that people live in, but also the sense of community that each little ghetto has.

The only water here was a public tap for each group of about 40 families. Each group of 5 families shared what we would call an construction site toilet (locked with 5 keys). This replaced some fairly static toilets. There was no electrcity just big batteries and a battery re-charge center. But there was a daycare, kindergarten school, rec center (it had lights) and gallery. Like a little village, just a really poor little village. We got introduced to a lot of people and stepped into a few places and homes and stores (tuck shops). All around, a very cool and enlightening visit. Was very glad that I decided to go. Felt odd walking around, but the people there realize that tourism is a valid way to generate money.

Did lots of walking and running in Jo'burg. I was 5 kms from downtown and still all the properties were compounds with electric razor wire and all the signs said 24 HOUR ARMED RESPONSE. This means that the boys show up with guns in a truck. Forget calling the police. Interesting town. Drove thru downtown once. It was un-settling.

OK. Off to Botswana and who knows what. Picture is buddy Roger, who travles with an iron. Go figure.

Qatar Oasis

2010-02-19T16:19:00.008-04:00

The many months of travelling have been wearing me down in background mode. The last few countries (India and China) have exacted their toll and the batteries were definitely running low.

Earlier in the trip, Mike and Cindy O'Leary from Halifax had suggested that I stop in Doha for a week, should my travels take me to the Middle East. I am so glad that things worked out the way they did. I arrived in Doha last week, and was met at the airport (a first for this trip, even tho a few hostels ahd promised pickups) by the O'Leary's and their CDN friends (also working in the Middle East), Dan and Carolyn. The best words to describe how I felt that night were relief and happiness.

It was a wonderful week. We spent the first 2 days being busy (Terry Fox run, big amateur music party, simulated Calgary Stampede), then I got a chance to seriously chill for 4 days. Sleep in a big bed, wake up to coffee and omelettes, take a shower or bath, use the internet to catch up, do a few laundries, eat Western food suppers and drink a fair amount of Mike's beer.

Really, it was heaven and sorely needed. Now I feel all charged up and ready to tackle the last few months of this amazing trip.

Thanks Mike and Cindy for inviting me into your lives for a most relaxing visit.

Incredible India

2010-02-12T05:04:00.031-04:00

My new 'buddy', Momo, a rickshaw driver in Varanasi. We are both the same age, but coming from completely different backgrounds. When I am travelling, I often wonder what it would be like if I had to trade places with some of the people I meet. Switch me with Momo right now. Help! The thought terrifies me, yet this man gets thru his day allright. One of man's best attributes is adaptability. This trip has pushed and pulled my comfort zone quite a bit...but always with the background thought that I can return to my life as I wish.

It will take me a long time to sort out all my thoughts of my visit to India. I am so glad that my trip has worked out this way. Cannot imagine an RTW trip that skips over such as astounding place. I was only in 4 places (Delhi, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri and Varanasi), but even with such a light visit, I am still in shock.

DELHI
=====
The airport was a physical shock. There is a pre-pay area outside, but it is mindblowing to a newcomer. The little cab was easily from the 50's and the brakes made only of metal. Every person in India that I had $$$ dealings with (as a tourist, this is always a high percentage) either lied to me, tried to move me to thier advantage, mis-directed me and/or ripped me off. My hostel was only 8-10 kms from airport, but buddy couldn't even find main street within .5 km of my place. Also couldn't read/speak English. Took 1.5 hrs to arrive at hostel after midnite. My adventure pretty common one. Hostel was open and had cold beer, so all was well.

Hooked up with Adam and Owen the next day (and enjoyed my time so much more). We all liked to walk and a crowd is so much easier with all the hustlers. We took an auto-rickshaw into town...another mind-blowing trip. Traffic in Delhi (or any big place in India) has to be experienced. My description would be tame.

The food in India is always good. I had so many great meals everywhere I went. We were lucky enough to hook up with Claire on day 2 and after a few forts and mosques, ended up at a big Couchsurfing meetup that lasted until 4:00 AM. Walking the Muslim quarter during suppertime muezzin call was very cool.

Trying to find and use travel services sucked up some serious time. Lying locals, mis-directs, closed shops, down internet, lying agents, booked trains, you name it, mucho obstacles. Was the toughest part of visiting. The hustlers not that big of a problem.

Kids begging was a problem. In the streets, in the rickshaws. There is no good answer here. Some kids I gave money, most I didn't. With the kid hustlers, if they had a good patter and a sense of humour, they got $$ from me. Treating all the hustlers with a sense of humour worked well, very few were actually aggressive and usually only in very high-traffic area. With some of them, after a few exchanges of banter and perhaps a few firm "no"'s, there might even be some friendly chit-chat.

AGRA
====

We took the day train to Agra. The little hotel we stayed at in Agra was within sight of the Taj, as you can see from the picture. We got up early to make sunrise at the Taj. Thus was easy, as the muezzin boys started about 5:20 AM and were quite loud and long-winded (20 minutes). It was very surreal.

FATEHPUR SIKRI
==============

In the afternoon, a bunch of us, including 2 CDN girls and a Brit, took a local bus (an amazing experience all in itself) about 40 kms to Fatehpur Sikri (abandoned Mughal city). I actually sold some postcards to the local hustler kids (a longer story). I liked this town a lot. There was a local festival going on. Sitting on the bus waiting to return to Agra, I was buying beer (another longer story) and having it passed thru the window to share with other backpackers. Two of the girls missed their train and stayed with us for the night (3 beds, 5 people, again a longer story).

VARANASI
========

The overnight train to Varanasi was a bit of a nightmare. Countless extras in the train car, security was a problem and I was fighting the trots. Looking up from your spot and seeing the hallways and floors jammed with locals at 3:00 Am, it is time to start praying that you won't have to attempt a bathroom run.

I went to Varanasi to the see ghats and the burning bodies. The ghats were very cool. I spent a few days wandering up and down, chilling on the steps, playing chess with the locals, humoring the hustlers and generally enjoying myself. The alleyways that ran parallel were a lot of fun as well. Burning bodies don't bother me, but the dogs running about and fighting, the goats eating the flowers off the pallets, the kids laughing and playing, the general mayhem of the place just freaked me out.

INDIA
=====

India is not an experience you can describe with a bunch of flowery words, however well-placed. It is agut-wrenching (literally) and mind-blowing experience. I wish that i had a videocam attached to my head for about 60% of the trip. Everyday, I saw things that blew the circuits in my head, even tho you get pretty blase to a number of sights, new shit just keeps coming up.

I now know why India gets in people's blood. The experience is so powerful and so unique, it is like a drug (with a lot of side-effects).

Oddly enough, the place works. Traffic works, even with those million of potential mishaps that occur on a daily basis. The people are maddening and loveable, friendly as all get out and will do their best not to say "NO" to you, even if this means lying.

Incredible India. F&*^%ing Incredible India!

India 2010

Guilin and Hong Kong

2010-01-26T07:48:00.015-04:00

Unfortunately, Guilin served up rain, fog and smog for my three days there. I can't complain, as I hadn't seen rain since back in November. Of the 2 places that I have visited on this trip that would need going back to Guilin will top the list (Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand being the other one). Solitary Peak was a real treat, and also the extent of my sight-seeing in a place that reminds me so much of Vinales in Cuba that perhaps I had my expectations running just a little too high.

Hong Kong
=========

After almost 6 weeks of travel in Korea and China where the language barrier slowly but surely wears you down, I land in Hong Kong. The skies are clearer, people speak quite a bit of English, it is warm enough for shorts and I have money in my pocket that needs to be spent on Western food and beer.

The only other time I have felt this way was after Regina and I had just spent 3 weeks in pre-Solidarity Poland (1980), existing on the lowest level of food that I have experienced in my life. We arrive in West Berlin and the day is spent eating an amazing variety of food. So it is in Hong Kong. I treated myself to a steak and beer combo in a Western bar today. Cost enough to travel in China for almost 2 days. How do you justify that? Yin and yang. It all balances out.

Contrast and Expectations
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One of my favorite words prior to this trip was contrast. Why do you run? Cause it feels so good to stop. The Gonzo tradition of ice cream after a few days of hiking, or hitting the showers after an hour of ploughing thru nasty winter weather, making dinner after a day of paddling in Gaspe. You need to endure some loss of comfort to truly enjoy the pleasures around you. Making Hong Kong after a few weeks in mainland China served up a nice level of contrast.

Thanks to my buddy David (whom I intend to visit in Botswana later in this trip) has given me the Buddhist concept of expectation to mull over. I agree, our expectations can literally overshadow our experiences. As I do my travelling, I try to keep my expectations as far in the shadows as I can. It is a daily struggle.

My example is bathrooms. All during this trip, I have encountered a stunning array of bathrooms. But it is my expectations that colour the use of these bathrooms, more than their actual state of repair/dis-repair. Give me a sloppy batroom in New Zealand and I'm upset. Find me an open stall in a crowded train station in Xi'an and I am ecstatic. Humans are weird creatures.

China 2010

China Syndrome - Forbidden City, Great Wall and Terra Cotta Warriors

2010-01-26T07:41:00.005-04:00

I'm doing the highlight tour of China. (Beijing, Forbidden City, Great Wall, Terra Cotta Warriors, Guilin and Hong Kong)

No access to Blog, Facebook, Picasa, etc, so email it is.

In Xi'an (Terra Cotta Warriors) for a few days, then taking a 26 hour train to Guilin. Will chill there for a few days and then make my way to Hong Kong. Will skip out of town before the Chinese New Year. I have someone to see there but will not try and stay for the New Year. Need to be heading westward. Running out of $$$ (of course, that has always been true, but now I can count the days left within a few weeks. Looks like I'll head back by the end of April. Of course, I am still very open to possibilities. Travelling is still too much fun to think about stopping.

China a bit more work to deal with than say New Zealand, but the experiences makes the work worthwhile. I am currently staying in one of the coolest hostels I've ever been in (Shuyuan). They wrote my train details to Guilin in Chinese for me, so that when I bought my ticket, I didn't end up in Shanghai. No English on my ticket, I just believe it to be true. (JiaJia assures me).

I am introducing tipping into this country whether they like it or not. I got all the people on the tour bus (Terra Cotta) yesterday to kick in some $$$ to tip our guide. They do not like to to take money for nothing, but I assured her that it was the customs of the countries represented (Argentina, Italy, US and Canada) and she had to accept. The tip I foisted on my waiter in Beijing (I ate same place for 4 nights and he helped me out a lot) took 10 minutes to convince him he had to take it. We even had to get his friend involved to translate a little bit. It was fun). On the Great Wall hike (Jinshanling to Simatai), we had 15 or so hustlers follow the group for 5-6 Km. I bolted ahead of the group about .5 km and had the place to myself most of the time (3 hours). A few time I stopped to take pics or jst look around, the place was absolutley silent, an experience to rememebr forever. At the mid-way point, there was Jiang-Li,a local who hikes a few hours perpendicularly to the Wall from a small viallge to sell his stuff (which included beer!). I bought a beer, we excahnegd camera photos and stories about our kids (he is same age as me and has one boy and oner girl). He would not take a tip, but I paid him an exorbitant amount (5 times what he was asking) for a little book). One of the more enjoyables beers in my life.

The Terra Cotta Warrior sight is not as expected, but the actual pit was as stunning as advertised. All those completely different faces. I am still quite shocked. Easily worth the trip here to see therm

The smog in Xi'an is intense, it is claustrophobic, you can see about 2 km if you count outlines and shapes, then it is just a wall of white. It is upsetting me quite a bit. Kids here think that this is normal. Flying Beijing to Xi'an, I never saw the ground once, altho we were only a few thousand feet up on a nice day. Buddy on plane trying to tell me it was a cloudy day. Even taking a picture of my hostel, if i back up acrsoos the street, you notice the lack of clarity in the picture.

Finding English newspaper here Ok. Lot of politics (cool) and business. Everyone here has a cell phone (about 30% ) You use dirty words in a text, they can take away your number forever (I'm sure some fine fixes that). Lots of security checks in Beijing and at tourist sights. Other than that, seems just like a bustling economy, altho miles behind say Korea.

Meeting lots of teachers. They are all on break and travelling. People scurrying to try and nail down New Year's stuff. Playing Foosball and pool with the locals in a local bar. Pretty funny. Sports and light competition do not need a language. Beer helps too. Can only relax so much, there is always a background of someone trying to take advantage of you. Got dinged in Beijing by some art students and have had odd offers here in Xi'an. Part of the situation you must deal with

This has been a hell of a trip so far. Lots of new experiences. The underlying sense of freedom is just too cool to explain.

Bruce

Seoul Sensations

2010-01-10T05:20:00.009-04:00

I have been travelling for over 6 months now and am quite lost trying to describe my Korea and and Seoul experiences. Pictures help and I am writing from notes, but really, you need to be here to understand how cool and conflicted that is Seoul. I am really glad that Sophie found a place to go and work. She was so keen for some new experiences and Seoul will fit that bill and more. She has a good job, a great place to live in a funky neighbourhood and some very cool friends.

While I did spend most of my time in Seoul, I did take a few days to fly down to Jeju, the vacation island south of Korea. I enjoyed myself a lot, but would really have enjoyed the place in some season other than winter. Korean hostels are very well run.

The pictures are Sunrise Peak. You can visit, or better yet, rent a room in the village and hike up to the crater rim for sunrise, something I hope daughter Sophie and friends get to do this spring.

Seoul is a city of contrasts, old and new. Hundreds of tiny, teeming, frenetic, Asian, dense, noisy neighbourhoods slowly being surrounded and consumed by big roads and apartment complexes. The city is surrounded by hills, and industrial smog. You take a very efficient subway system to a local dong or gil and wander in alleyways that have motorcycles and sometimes cars, competing for the few feet of available space. You are surrounded by masses of well-dressed, good-looking, hard-working, aggressive, cell-phone addicted young people and the same amount of extremely short, multi-layered, not so colourful older people working their butts off in some very trying conditions.

Sophie's neighbourhood is 24-7 and much busier than any neighbourhood you chose to compare with in New York and it is really one of hundreds in Seoul. Very colourful, VERY consumer-oriented. Not for the faint of heart. At the same time, the area is quite safe at all hours of the night.

Food here is a very social experience.

Korea 2009

King takes Queen...Mate

2009-12-30T02:02:00.006-04:00

Congratulations, Mr. Sampson on your wedding to Darcy. I am so glad that this day has come to pass. You are 2 of the nicest, coolest people I have ever met and you deserve each other and the happiness that comes with being together. It's because of you, Larry, that I am a Gonzo (and I cannot imagine not being a Gonzo). I remember the first day we met as you became head instructor for the computer course at NSIT. What a nerdy, yakky, detailed guy...who has that much information squirreled away in their heads. Surely there is a better way to use that space.

Well, a lot of time has passed since then. We started running together, you introduced me to some Gonzos, I began racing, we became neighbours, we played a lot of chess, we had families and careers, we went on hiking and biking trips, we played darts and drank beer.

You still have an astounding amount of information in your head (and the ability to retrieve it!). I certainly hope that Darcy has placed some boundaries on your penchant for expounding on a large variety of subjects.

Here to you and Darcy, a match that had to be.

Seoul brothers

2009-12-22T07:23:00.019-04:00

Louis and Leor, two of Sophie's buddies in Seoul. My daughter has good taste. They are great guys.

Seoul will be such a dense experience that I think it will take a few posts to clear my head. I arrived here Thursday night on Korean Air. These are the people that brag about unparallelled flight service. I had the good fortune to be bumped up to Business Class. Powered seats that fold almost flat, 3 course meals, enough room to call it a bachelor apartment, very attractive air stewardesses. I am ruined for Economy.

Arrive in Seoul, pick up my pre-booked cell phone, take the ever so efficient subway to within 100 meters of Sophie's apartment and give her a buzz. Dinner is in one of hundreds in her 'hood' (Rodeo, Cheonho-dong, Gangdong-gu) and involves a Bbq and some beer. So happy to see my daughter who I last saw in New York at least 6 months ago.

Her apartment is very slick, fancy and new. One of the benefits of parachuting into a completely new culture with a good paying job. We spend the next day at a Buddhist and Shamanist shrine site (Inwansan). Very cool.

Saturday is the big Techie Market to look for speakers. We end up embarrassing ourselves, mis-understanding someone who wants 15,000 Won for something that we took for 1,500 Won. Took some abuse for that. Buddy was upset for sure. Still pretty funny. Next stop was the big fish market at Noryangjin. Makes the South St. Seaport market in New York look like a bake sale. You have to see this to believe it.

Following a bunch of young people around a strange city is a lot of fun. They get into all sorts of situations that are hilarious all on their own. We toured some fancy Korean (Lotto) entertainment center and went bowling. As soon as we signed up, Leor and Jamie took off into the maze to find some beer to drink while we bowled.

My kind of people!

Bowling was hilarious, especially after the bowling staff tried to get us to stop drinking the beer. As if! The 'croo had also picked up some Soju (Korean vodka lite???). It was a silly time.

Next on the tour was a Korean BBQ. Louis is Korean, so this opens a lot of opportunities in the crazy world of Korean cuisine in Seoul. All sorts of food that just kept on coming. The restaurant was full (as were the dozens or so within sight). The service is top-notch. There people work their buns off. I wouldn't last a shift in this environment.

Next up was some karaoke at a place Louis found that I wouldn't have recognized given a week to do so. I had ingested just enough alcohol, so this was a fun time. The cost would be borne out some time in the future. For now, the body felt...ooh I don't know...at least 10 years younger.

Sunday was pretty quiet (we cabbed home about 4:00 AM). I need the break.

Monday, Sophie and I go to a public workout park (very cool) and then I head off to wend my way thru a downtown with English sprinkled in a seemingly random manner. I find a house-warming present for Sophie (a power converter so she can run her iPod, and hair utensils). At some point I do run into the infamous Namdaemun Market and have myself a blast, buying food, drinking coffee (or coppee) and finding my first map of Seoul with ENGLISH on it. I am so happy.

Well, It is time to start hitting the palaces and museums (Gyeongbokgung, Deoksugung, Changdeokgung). Seoul is a smoggy city, who knew? It has also been around for millenia, which is even longer than grand old Halifax. It also has more people, sort of like 24 MILLION. They seem to gravitate toward the subway I am on and don't mind bumping into you. I think that the number of people over 15 that speak English can be counted on a few hands. It has been a fascinating few days. Can hardly wait for tomorrow. I even found a beer that I like more than any beer I found in New Zealand. It only costs $1,000 Won. A steal at twice the price!

Wicked

2009-12-15T17:09:00.021-04:00

After flying back up to Auckland (much cheaper than bus/ferry/hostel/food/bus), I settled in for a few days of R&R. On the go for many days on the road meant that I needed a break. First break was free upgrade to a double room in the YHA hostel. The local internet place was $1 an hour and I caught up on all my reading gossip politics sports and email. Did some Christmas shopping, read a few books and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Got the China visa no problem (no itinerary, no plane ticket, no entry point pre-defined...all verbal).

Flight to Sydney went off fine and Chuck (Donna Bernard's cousin) picked me up for a full day of sight-seeing and bar hopping. We walked the Harbour bridge and I got my first look at the Opera House. Stunning. Too bad not opera season yet and the ballet was sold-out already. We met a few of Chuck's buddies (Adam and Alex) at a pub, me drinking some great Aussie beer (Fat Yak and BlueTongue pilsner) and eating kangaroo for the first time (Fair dinkum, I thought they were spoofing me).

I love Sydney Harbour. A real lively place. Over the next few days I walked around it, took boats hither and yon and thoroughly enjoyed the space. I made it out to North Head of the harbour on a big loop that included Bondi beach. Chuck and Flora took me out to Manly and North Head the next day.

I can''t say enough about nice Chuck&Flora have been to me. Taking me places, feeding me BBQ and beer and wine, taking me to/from the airport, laundry, internet, stereo. I feel guilty taking so much with not much in return. I certainly hope I can return the favour for them or their friends. If not, I'll just pay it forward. I agree with Chuck that when you are nice to people, it comes around and people are nice to you.

I spent the week doing things you do in a big metropolis, going to museums (aboriginal, kangaroos, koalas, cassowarys, wombats), aquariums, learning the transit system, shopping, walking, checking out bookstores, beaches, pubs and reading the local rags.

On Tuesday, I lucked into a last-minute lottery ticket for front-row center to see Wicked. It was FABULOUS. I am still always amazed that people can suspend your day-to-day life with set design, lighting, dancing, singing and a play...all set on a stage just in front of you. I would see Wicked again in a New York minute.

Oh yeah! I found a picture of Robert Kaufman's predecessor's, altho much cuter:

Sydney 2009

Ever been to sea-kayaking, Brucie?

2009-12-02T22:50:00.018-04:00

Stayed with Sue's sister Judy and her partner Bruce in New Brighton (outside Christchurch) for a few days. Had an excellent time. Felt very comfy from the first minute. Of course, Bruce had to take me out sea-kayaking right away. No matter that I had just spent the last 11 hours walking from Amberley. Of course, I said that I had been sea-kayaking, not to mention years of sprint, marathon and white-water kayaking. My sea-kayaking was in coves and small, protected bays. BruceW meant in the ocean with a bit of chop. I'll post the video if I can get it cut down a bit. Had to paddle out past the break just to get to some waves bigger than I've ever been in. Mucho fun if a tad un-nerving.

Judy had some work to do on a house rental, and I opted to tag along. I like doing what my hosts are doing. Better karma. Makes the beer taste a lot better too. After a few days of slave labour, we took a day to sightsee Banks Peninsula. Bruce drives his motorbike there all the time and used to beekeep in the area as well, so we visited a lot of little coves and back roads. As you can see from the pictures, the weather did not cooperate, but the scenery was still magnificent.

Why Bruce is trying to take my attention off the view has never been fully realized.

New Zealand does not have a lot of uncleared land anymore. When you do venture into the bush, you can be sure that someone has catalogued every little tree and plant. Even the rotting logs get the treatment.

After a few days of serious relaxation, baths, cheese and olive pit rituals, all the beer I could handle, access to the internet and mucho tomfoolery, I headed back to Auckland by plane, became a meateater again after a 2 week break, gave the Chinese Consulate my CDN passport and took the ferry to Coromandel Peninsula.

Will stay here a few days, then head back to Auckland, hopefully get the visa, cleanup a little and head off to Australia.

Jaded

2009-11-23T21:22:00.006-04:00

The jade is from the beaches around Greymouth. Enjoyed a very nice day there, swimming, hiking and jade hunting with some people from the hostel, prior to watching a sunset into the ocean. Such a nice way to finish a great day.

After a few days in Arthur's Pass, I decided to hitch-hike to Christchurch on a really cold morning. Greg from Auckland picked me up, drove me thru some stunning scenery, bought me a coffee and dropped me off in Cathedral Square. Spent the gorgeous afternoon walking the Avon River and tooling about the Botanical Gardens, easily one of the nicest I've ever seen. Spent a few days in town, did some museums, some walking, a full laundry including footwear, a full day off reading and a night watching the NZ All-Whites attain a spot in the soccer World Cup.

Monday, I got up nice and early and walked the 54 kms to Amberley to do some Wwoofing on Stone Circle farms with Michelle and John (friends of Sue Green's sister Judy). Google Maps done me wrong...I was only supposed to walk 47 kms, but Google had a back road in Amberley extending thru an area that it definitely does not. I even spent an afternoon on the bike trying to find an old path or lane that excuse such an error, but no luck.

Spent the next week or so up weeding at 7:00 AM, outdoors all days, eating mostly organic (I kept some snack treats in my trailer and treated myself to fish&chips on Friday) and generally enjoying a fair bit of time to myself, mostly reading a few books. All this travelling can wear you down a bit, especially when you are in shared accommodations most nights. A real treat to be by myself for a few days.

Will walk back in Christchurch tomorrow, spent a few days with Sue's sister Judy, then fly to Auckland and see if I can swing a Chinese visa before leaving NZ. The trip to Invercargill fell thru, and with it, a possible shimmy up to Queenstown and/or Mt. Cook. Would rather get the Chinese visa and spent a few days walking the Coromandel Peninsula, a place I had to skip to even get to South Island.

No matter what you decide to see in New Zealand, you are skipping over amazing things. I did not have any 'have-to's on the trip and will keep that frame of mind. I don't like rushing or chasing. I enjoy scenery, scents, walking, hostels, new people, other travellers, the sense of freedom.

Remembrance Day - NZ

2009-11-10T21:34:00.012-04:00

As a charter member of the Gonzo Adventure Club, I felt that it was duty to continue the age-old tradition of hiking on Remembrance Day to somewhere very peaceful and quiet. I am here in Arthur's Pass, part of the NZ Alps and hiked up the Avalanche Peak trail, arriving at 5,000 ft in a snowstorm just before 11:00 AM on Nov.11. I called Bruce Duffy, because it is very nice to share some of these little adventures, and we were 2 of the constants on the Remembrance Day camping the past 10 years or so.

Prior to this, I was in Greymouth on the West Coast for a few days of hiking, swimming, sunsets and jade hunting. Found a big piece and will upload a picture of it soon.

Napier, Rugby, Abel Tasman and Glaciers

2009-11-05T23:59:00.015-04:00

Spent a stunning few days in Napier at a really cool hostel on the beach. Such a relaxed town, all that Art Deco stuff and a wonderful beach. Spent 2 days walking around and swimming/reading on the beach. My roomies were Japanese and French and we spent a lot of time sitting about the back of the hostel with someone playing guitar. Tried my one really rude saying on a Swedish girl and will not do that again. It's too rude and I mangle it too much.

Off to Wellington for a few days of running and resting with the Russells. Bob's running pace after knee surgery is still quicker than my race pace, and he threw in hills to boot. We got in a nice evening in a local restaurant and Bob and I also made an evening of beers, fish&chips and rugby (Air New Zealand Cup semi-final).

The ferry across to Picton was on a gorgeous day and I settled into Nelson for a few days of hiking including Abel Tasman with the water taxis. Stunning views and a hike to remember for a long time. The hostel was again very cool (free brekkie and dessert each evening). Tough to leave these places, but nice knowing that there so many cool, funky hostels in Nz. Best part of the trip after all the natural wonders. Hiking and walking about in sub-tropical NZ in the spring is an experience of a lifetime. The scents in the air, the birds singing, the abundant foliage everywhere. Absolute magic.

Picture is taken in Taupo at a local hot-springs. Free hot pool spa on a nice little hike.

Took a bus down to Franz Josef and spent a few days hiking about the glaciers there and at Fox Glacier. Love staying where there are mountains. So cool to wake up to on a sunny day. The views are very weather dependant, so the mirror lake at Murchison did not give up it's delights yesterday. Was lucky enough to see Franz Josef from a mirror lake today.

Picture is from Picton on a stunning day

Picture is from Abel Tasman (not mine)

Ran into a few people I have met in other parts of NZ (Tom & Nora on a world-wide tour) and they were nice enough to take pics of me while I swam in a glacier pool. Easily ranks up there with the coldest water I have ever been in. Voice was slurring and arms not responding after but 5 seconds. A tad scary.

Picture is from a mirror lake by Franz Josef

Video is from Nelson , where Sophie worked for a bit

Assessing long-term backpacking

2009-10-30T01:28:00.014-03:00

Backpacking is quite different from other modes of travelling. Long-term backpacking is another beast altogether. By backpacking, I mean all your stuff on your back and no car to stuff things in or get you around. Long-term is measured in months, not weeks. With shorter-term travel, you can cheat a bit or just suck it up and ignore things. On a longer trip, everything must get dealt with sooner or later.

I am on a long trip (2 months out West with some of that Wwoofing, some travelling about and some at relatives like sister, brother and niece, followed by 2 months in New Zealand and possibly 3 more months in getting myself back to Canada by circling the globe).

FOOD

It took me awhile to get my food setup the way I like. What to look for in the stores, what can be found in big/small stores/towns, what to carry each day. In Ireland, every little joint had little salad bars and fresh bread. Not so in New Zealand. I am getting enough fruit/veggie/protein in any one week, as consistently as possible. In my bag, I carry some utensils (hostels lack), tea/coffee/sugar, cheese, pepper/salt, some form of bread, muesli, some fruit, a few chocolate bars and water.

My breakfasts are yogurt, banana, muesli, juice and bread. Lunches are bread, cheese, fruit. Suppers are pasta/rice affairs, sometimes with meat, always with cut veggies.

Break from the routine is a sandwich shop or Asian noodle place for lunch. Food is expensive here, restaurants doubly so.

CLOTHES

I am carrying 2 shorts, 4 tops, sleep/swim/rain gear, shoes/sandals, a fleece top and nylon jacket. Very pleased with the setup. The 4th top has not been used and is for social emergencies, should I really mess up on the laundry, which I do in sinks or hostel setups as often as possible.

No real sense of missing something or dragging stuff around.

TRAVEL

Doing a lot of hitch-hiking (pleasant surprise), a decent amount of walking and buses in and out of cities. Booking hostels in advance if they involve Friday/Saturday. Booking online and using the option to Txt me instead of chasing down printer access.

Happy enough with how much overhead this entails and how long I stay in places, at least 2 nights. I like hitch-hiking into a town and finding a hostel, getting to know the place, find the Info place and a good grocery store, then touristing.

The Wwoofing is hard to match up with your own schedule, but really, has been working out well. My itinerary is quite flexible.

Trying to deal with airlines/embassies/visas is always a real pain. Outside your own country, the very idea makes me flustered.

INTERNET

I have found lots of access, just the cost is too high, averaging $4-5 an hour. They even charge for WiFi, so your own PC is not cheaper, just more convenient. If I had an open Data device (like iPhone), it would work out cheaper and more convenient. Damn! I miss reading online a lot. Realistically, I would like an hour online, everyday.

BUDGET

With the Wwoofing, this has been working out as expected. That being said, the little stash of cash just keeps diminishing. The surprises have been internet, toiletries and misc stuff: flash drives/museums. With flexibility and last-minute decisions comes higher travel costs. It's a pain, but I really enjoy the floppy front-end of my travelling.

People do travel cheaper than me, but I am happy with my price points.

WWOOFING

Glad I Wwoofed in Canada before coming here. each setup is quite different and while there are usually frustrations along the way, overall, the experiences are quite positive. The work I did staying with the Maori family was the worst job ever, yet, for the week, it was all balanced out by the very positive, cool cultural experiences. That is why I am travelling, for the new experiences.

SOCIALIZING

I have been sleeping in dozens of places and setups (beach, deck, hostel, couch, bed, plane, etc) the past few months, meeting new people everyday (hostels, hitch-hiking, Wwoofing). I enjoy the whole routine and have made some new email/Facebook friends along the way. Some people, you just click with. I am interested in how people get through their lives and have found people interested in my take on the world.

I am comfortable with my age and past experiences and don't feel that age has too much effect on my social interactions. The only real exception is bars. I have been in a few. Besides the expense I am not a late night, crazy, boozing person and never really was. I have been in a few situations like this, but not for long.

OVERALL

I feel that I am the right person at the right time for this trip. I enjoy the lifestyle, my body is enjoying the stresses I am putting on it. These many situations force me to be much more flexible in dealing with all situations, always a good thing. It all feels good.

I have been lucky enough to get in a bunch of hiking, running, biking, swimming and even some surfing. Some of the hikes have been astounding (Comox, Tofino, 90 mile, Tongariro).

Now, the real question is how to get back to Canada, Do I do what it takes to get thru China ($$$ and visa concerns). Do I have what it takes to backpack India?

Who knows. The doors are still open. The road beckons

Tongariro Crossing

2009-10-23T19:33:00.006-03:00

Left Mount Maunganui to hitch to Rotorua. Nuce ride in a truck (my first)with Kui, a really nice guy from Fiji. We exchanged emails as his son is headed to Korea to teach English after Xmas. Stayed with Maureen and Geoff in Rotorua. Maureen is Ralph Rickard's sister. I met them in Halifax when they were there for Amy's wedding. So cool to visit people in completely different surroundings. Had a great visit and got in some hiking in the Redlands park, including a sunny dip in Blue lake (there is a cool spot you can see Blue lake and Green lake at the same time). The next day we spent the morning in the hot spa pools and they drove me to Huka Falls (amazing flow), then Taupo.

Trying to recover from first illness of the trip, a big, bad chest cold. First time ill since I left Dal, so can't complain. No fun to be sick while travelling. Just want to sit in a big, hot tub with a radio and beer.

Got to do the Tongariro Crossing while in Taupo. Nice big volcano hike. Weather at the top did not allow for sitting around and taking vista photos (sleet, high wind and freezing temperatures), but was very cool, nonetheless. Would do the hike again in a second.

Serendipity

2009-10-17T18:11:00.007-03:00

There are lots of styles of travelling. Many of the hostels here are full with people who buy cars and travel for a few months. Makes many tasks easier, some harder. Dad a few friends whose cars have broken to the tune of over $1000. My style is just plain backpacking...some walking, hitchhiking and buses to deal with cities. Food is a problem. If I stay in a hostel for a few days, I can buy decent groceries. I have to use up most of my food at each stop. I carry bread, cheese, tea and muesli all the time (and have had to use it as the main meal).

Not knowing where I am going or when can be a bit more expensive. Tough to book flights, hostels etc at the last minute. Of course, the other side of this coin is flexibility. Each day is wide open.

My brother Jon and I have had quite a few discussions about serendipity, where good things happen as a result of your openness to let anything happen. A few examples:

Hitch-hiked away from first Wwoofing farm in Kaingaroa at 7:30 in the morning, heading towards Cape Reinga (top of North island, about 120 kms away). The plan: drop my Dal keyring there and get to a hostel later on. I received a number of rides, including a Dutch girl who invited me Wwoofing in Bay of Islands and a number of locals. At Waitiki landing, there people came up to me an offered me a ride. They had seen me the day before swimming in Doubtless Bay (during the tsunami warning) and we had chatted for a bit. I end up with a ride up to the Cape, lunch, a swim in Toputuputu Bay, a visit to the sand dunes, a ride to the remote hostel in Henderson Bay (It just opened, I am first backpacker of the season) and an invitation to visit them in Christchurch, which I will do when I visit Sue's sister, Judy.

A very cool day that just fell into place. The next few days I spent walking, swimming and surfing in 90 mile beach.

My last week with a Maori family was serendipity. While I was back in Kaingaroa, I received an email from a host. She had seen my profile and was asking if I wanted to work in Tauranga. I said yes and ended up with a cultural experience as a highlight of my visit to New Zealand so far. Spending the week with a local Maori family was quite the experience. A very social, interactive culture. Those big, dramatic faces that can look so intense really light up when they are smiling. Everyone I met was very kind, friendly and interested in what us Woofers were doing or where we were from.

A very cool week that had no premeditation, I just replied to an email because usually hosts don't chase volunteers. Like flipping a coin, let's see what happens.

Last example: Daughter Sophie was also in new Zealand for a month. She was South, working her way North, and I was doing the opposite. We would have met in Auckland but she opted for a quicker flight back to Canada to see Michelle and get ready for Korea.

Good news for me? Looks like I will fly to Seoul to perhaps spends Christmas with Sophie in Korea. Been looking at Wwoofing sites already. If I get there, who knows. To head West, I now can look at China or India.

Like I said, this style of travelling has it's own rewards. I love the flexibility and of course, the resulting serendipity that can just fall in your lap.

Kaingaroa and 90 Mile Beach

2009-10-10T04:02:00.012-03:00

Three weeks in New Zealand already? Somehow December seems like just around the corner. I'm still only 100+ kms from the top of North Island. What have I been doing? Walking, Wwoofing, swimming, surfing, backpacking, hitchiking, roofing, weeding, schmoozing. It has been a blast. Such a cool country to be in. Spent the first few days in Auckland, getting over jet lag, getting the phone setup, checking out buses, bars, museums and walking about. This place is expensive.

Headed up to Paihia (Bay of Islands - funky town)) for a night, then hitch-hiked over to Kaitaia for a night, then walked 20+ kms to my first Wwoofing farm. Gorgeous scenery, much like Ireland, but with low mountains and a lot more cultivation. Interesting week on the farm. Lots of horses, dogs, cats, goats, birds, mini-horses, geese, rottweilers. Allergies held up good till about 4th day, then deteriorated from the overload. Took a few days away from the farm to recover. Really loved tramping about the farm in my big rubber boots. My hosts got me to 90 Mile Beach and swimming in Doubtless Bay. All in all a pretty cool week.

Took 5 days off to backpack and had an astounding time. Will do a post about serendipity after this post. Hiked up to Cape Reinga, the sand dunes and back to Henderson Bay and stayed in a really cool hostel with great hosts. Walked 25 kms the following day and spent a few hours on 90 Mile beach (absolute heaven). Next hiked to Ahipara and the funky hostel, Endless Summer on the beach. Spent a great night partying and went surfing the next day. The local conditions had every surfer within many kms showing up in the pouring rain. Too cool.

Next day, I walked the 35+ kms to my next Wwoofing farm (still in Kaingaroa). Spent the week digging up soil that was mostly clay. Toughest physical work I've done in awhile. I was the only Wwoofer that week and stayed in a bunk-house, making my own meals. Alone except for dropping up for a glass of wine or beer with the hosts. Really enjoyed the week, and it gave me some space.

Been travelling for 3 months now and spend a lot of time in social situations. Nice to be alone with my thoughts for a few days. Next hiked to Paihia again and spent a great day. Would love to spend a full week here, but the rest of NZ beckons. Bussed to Auckland, got my phone back, my haircut, got up on the internet and news. Baseball, hockey and football don't exist here and most of my online time is emails, Facebook, hostels, buses and Wwoofing. The hitchhiking is great here. Takes a few hours to go 100 kms, usually 3-4 rides from a mix of Maori, Pakeha (non-indigenous New Zealanders) and tourists. The topography is stunning, and I'm still just peeling the wrapper.

90 Mile Beach - Heaven!

The "SHOT'!

2009-09-19T21:09:00.013-03:00

Alex and I first met in Israel in 1977. We roomed together on Kibbutz Shefayim for a few months. We did a lot of running and reading and listening to music. As it turns out, we are both quite competitive. A good example would be the race up Masada on a very hot day. Only stupid, competitive people even think of these things.

Over the years, we have kept in touch with him visiting Halifax on his trips from Holland to California, or me visiting California. The visit before this one however, was at least 25 years ago. Sure enough, we meet up and go for a run or a hke right away. This time in was Marin headlands just over the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, followed up by Mt Tamalpais (home of MTB biking), where i was lucky enough to get stung by a bee on my lip. Off the Emergency while my lip and face puffed up like an over-pumped bicycle tube. It took a few days to settle.

On the second day of the visit, we did a long hike and swim, followed by a few beer and some horseshoes. We are old enough now not to be competing on hikes and runs, the parts don't like it anymore (of course, I'm just being nice to my host). As the horseshoe competition heated up, we ended up with the scenario you see above.

A ringer, on top of a leaner, on top of a ringer. Four great shots. Unfortunately, Alex had the upper hand on this finish.

Og course, for the day, I was the ultimate game to break all ties. With a ringer, of course...

Il Trovatore and Samurai Warriors

2009-09-13T15:13:00.013-03:00

Every year for my birthday, my Mom gives me enough $$ to buy something nice for myself. The past 4 years, it has been Opera tickets. This year I was lucky enough to get front row balcony for Verdi's Il Trovatore - The Troubadour. Just so happened, it was opening nite for the San Francisco Opera season. Red carpet, tuxedos, limos everywhere, valet parking, reception at City Hall after the event.

Of course, yours truly is backpacking and carrying all his clothes in a small gunny-sack. I looked high and low, but there was no tux to be found. I showed up in my current best finery: t-shirt, shorts and sandals. Likely the only person there with any parts of this combo, much less the entire outfit. People commenting on my dress code included the box office, ushers and patrons on either side of me. My saving grace was my NWZ schtick. Everyone loved that story.

The house was the biggest and fanciest in awhile. There were more people behind me in the balcony than in the Gaity Theatre Opera in Dublin (which of course, served Guinness at the break...still my opera house hi-lite).

The set design and lighting blew me away. Like being at a big Broadway play, I am always amazed at what people can do with limited space and unlimited imagination. The singing was the strongest I've ever seen. I even have some of the arias (sung by Kiri Te Kanawa- New Zealand). Opera at times makes me very happy. This was a great opera and a memorable evening.

I followed this up with a day at the Asian Museum for the Samurai Exhibit. I have read Shogun (James Mitchener) 4 times and Gai-Jin twice. To see signed Samurai swords from 300 years ago was intense. Today, I walked over to the annual free Opera in the Golden Gate Park. San Francisco is a great town, so many cool neighbourhoods.

Tomorrow, I will walk to and over the Golden Gate Bridge, then it's off to the Giants and Rockies baseball game to watch them fight for the wildcard in the playoffs. Tuesday, I get to hang out with Alex and Judy for 3 days before flying to NWZ. Alex and I were roomies on a kibbutz in Israel in the 70's and have visited each other numerous times. He is the big Dutchman I 'imported' into the US a few times.

While this type of big city travelling is poking big holes in my budget, it sure is a lot of fun.

Tofino, Tofino, Tofino!

2009-09-07T13:00:00.012-03:00

Been a busy week, beating up my aging body. Comox Glacier, Mount Washington, walk Ucluelet to Tofino, surfing and some pretty serious partying. I couldn't afford to stay in Tofino anymore. Spending too much money, drinking too much beer and running out of time.

Went to Port Alberni last Tuesday. Great hostel (Fat Salmon), but did not like the town that much. Took the Frances Barkley ferry out to Ucluelet on the West Coast. Wonderful way to spend a morning. Mountains all around, salmon feeding everywhere, lots of sport fisherman boats and remote camps everywhere. Was lucky enough to see my first whales (humpbacks with the tail fin). Very exciting

Hostels were full in Ucluelet (I hate booking ahead, but really, it makes sense in small towns), so I ended up in a nice B&B. Tooled about town, but did not go on the Wild Pacific trail. Too beat up from Monday still. Dinner was on a ferry docked in the harbour. Gorgeous weather, nice chatting with non-backpacking tourists.

Left B&B at 6:00 AM in the dark and pouring rain for the 42 km walk to Tofino. Tough decision. Wanted to sleep in, have brekkie and take the bus. Weather improved all day. Did a few kms of walking on the beach between Wikkaninish and Long Breach, otherwise on the road. I can walk 30 kms quite easy, the last 10 seem to beat me up a lot. Mucho pain to spread around. New backpack performed well. Nice to have all that cushioning and weight adjustments.

Tofino was great. Love the hostel (Whalers). Great physical layout for socializing, right on the water so we got in a big bonfire on Thursday nite. Travellers from all over the globe hanging out, drinking beer and speaking English (thank goodness). Friday nite was a great songfest inside the hostel (mucho rain outside). Decent sized crowd off to the bars after midnight. My roomies partied till 5:00 AM. I stopped at 1:00. Don't remember ever having that kind of jam.

Went to see Barbara (from the Wwoofing farm Ironwood) on Saturday morning at the market, then off surfing for the afternoon. I am now a surfer. Got another injury (bruised ribs) and spent mucho time on top of my board. Yeah! The coaches were giving me suggestions about where to place my hands on the pop-up (not on the side rails) and what to do with my feet (point sideways, like on a snowboard). Surfing is a lot more fun on top of the board. I can see why people get addicted.

Saturday nite, my roomies again went till 5:00 AM (I peeled at 1:00 again). Derek had just moved to Tofino and his first shift on the new job was for 5:45 AM. These people are serious. Mucho hilarity for so early in the day.

Back In Courtenay now, preparing to blow this popsicle stand. Daughter Sophie and I talk on the phone, she has opted to skip Korea and will be working in Nelson, New Zealand later this week! Weird. Will have to go see her, as we will be in the same country. Maybe visit for Emily's birthday in November. That would be cool.

Life is good.

Comox 2009

Mount Washington

2009-08-31T20:04:00.004-03:00

Last week, I was lucky enough to get up on the Comox Glacier. You could see Mount Washington about 30+ kms away and a tad lower. Back east, I have been lucky enough to climb Mount Washington in New Hampshire numerous times, and last year even got to run up the beast.. I always wanted to bike up it as well, but they only allow that during their annual race.

What's the answer? Bike up Mount Washington here of course. I got that done today on another sunny day in Paradise. Great to leave the house with a lunch, some water and a fleece top. The ride from Courtenay took an hour. The slog up 16 kms of 8-12% grade took a tad over 2 hours more. I was on a mountain bike that is a tad small for me and has a big cushy, bouncy saddle, so a decent percentage of my effort was not directed towards getting me up the mountain. In low gear pretty much all the way.

Looking back on Comox Glacier was too cool. My quads still hurt from that hike. Body parts don't recover like they did in my 30's.

The ride down took less than 30 minutes and was a blast. Had to peddle 2 small sections, the rest was easy flow and at times a tad speedy (like when your helmet wants to lift off your head)

I'm about ready to blow this popsicle stand and go hike Repack Mountain just north of San Francisco. It's where mountain biking got it's start. I was there hiking with Dutch buddy Alex Oppedijk back in the late 70's (or early 80's, the detail escapes me)

Dipper buys new gear! Stock market in turmoil

2009-08-29T19:23:00.007-03:00

It has been intimated that I keep things past their due date. Cars, clothes, sports gear, flotsam and jetsam. Well no more! Thanks to the generosity of the Gonzo 'croo at the various going-away parties, I had a tidy stash of $$$ that was supposed to be spent in some unique way. Me buying new gear is pretty unique, so here goes.

In the picture above, Tevas, shorts, a fleece top and...GASP! a new knapsack. I know, not a big deal to most of the planet, but to me, a serious personal growth issue. I had the original 40 liter bag since 1979 and it has seen it's share of fun. I even lent it a few times to people travelling oveseas and down south. I get attached to all my stuff and especially my gear.

The average age of the gear that is being replaced is 15 years. Just take a second to let that sink in. 15 years. I like to be the last person to use anything I own. You'll never see me hawking stuff at the Canada Day Marina party.

The new bag is a Deuter, and I love it already. I could go into minute detail about why I love it, but hey! I hope to have this bag for years, so you'll get to hear my story somewhere along the line.

So, thanks again to those who contributed to my new look.

Comox Glacier

2009-08-28T19:38:00.006-03:00

Wow!

I first saw the Comox Glacier in the late 70's. Wanted to go up then but other than day-hiking in Switzerland, had not spent any time up in mountains. Of course, once the Gonzo Adventure Club started hiking, these things became possible. Saw the Glacier again in 2007, but my travel list was quite full. Relatives to see for the first time, bungy-jumping, surfing, floatplanes and hot springs took up my time.

Out to visit family again on my way to NWZ and I can see the Glacier from my sister's house. I HAVE to get up that beast. My sister did her thing and next thing you know I'm on a waiting list for a 3 day hike. The list doesn't move for a month, but my contact (Ken Rodonet) is nice enough to hook with up with a private hike that will take just the one day. Excellent. I like a challenge. As it turns out the challenge was a 14 hour dayhike that we pushed a little and did in 12. Yousa! Longest dayhike up a mountain before was maybe 9 hours. Those few extra hours have a cost. I feel like hamburger all over.

We meet up the night before the hike and drive 2 hours to the trailhead to campout. The road requires a 4 wheel drive and the a long wheelbase as there are dozens of de-certified culverts along the way. Any one of them would swallow my sister's car whole. My fellow hikers were an experienced, multi-talented, accomplished 'croo (Will Wright, Linda, Bob, Loren, George and Tim). People had travelled and hiked and climbed all over the world. They knew Vancouver Island's mountains and caves inside out. I was pretty sure that we could handle any situation that might occur.

Up before dawn to pack up and start hiking at first light (6:00 Am). It took 2 hours to top the ridge and we climbed a solid 2000 feet in that time frame. Lots of ongoing chit chat and a few breaks for water and clothing adjustments. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and very clear with a light, cool breeze. Hike leader Will pointed out a lot of neighbouring peaks and lakes. We could see for many kilometers. The mountains here are higher and newer than back east, and they have snow!

There were a lot of little tricky bits on this climb, some including ropes for handholds. Definitely a bit more challenging than Mount Washington in New Hampshire. It took a full 7 hours to hit the top of the glacier. 7 hours! That's a full day for me. Time to crack a few beers. Oddly enough, I had a Tuborg with me, as I love to celebrate peaks with a beer, but with 5-6 hours of hiking left, I decided to leave the little canned joy in my knapsack. So much for my old trailname - Tuborg.

Of course, by new-ish trailname is Dipper. I WILL swim anywhere. I wasn't going to miss this opportunity, and got in a chilly submersion in a little pool on top of the glacier plateau (5000+ ft). Didn't go for the one with ice still in it. Be-still my heart.

The hike back was over 5 hours. I figure my knees gave out at about 3 hours and my quads the last hour or so. I was wearing my water shoes, not the best choice for hiking period. They slid around a bit and have the best foot contact at times.

We went out for dinner, schmoozed a bit and then it was back to my sister's. I fell asleep on the couch, then in the tub with water in it, in the tub with no water in it, on the bed in my skivvies, then finally in the bed itself.

Seize the day? I certainly did that!

Elderly man visits Fanny Bay

2009-08-24T12:19:00.007-03:00

I just spent 2 weeks Wwoofing for Barbara and Bryne Odegard at Ironwood Farm in Fanny Bay. It was a very rewarding time that will have an even more positive effect on me over time. Outdoors all day, lots of sun, picking, weeding and planting. I finished off most days with a run, a beer and an outdoor shower. We ate outside on the deck, the meals were abundant, the desserts amazing and the conversations with the hosts and other Wwoofers ranged from the silly to the sublime.

Over the 2 weeks, I shared space with people from New Zealand, B.C, Manitoba, Czech and Germany. Everyone had done quite a bit of travelling already in their lives and there were many great stories. Backpackers tend to be a positive, chill, resourceful crowd. Wwoofers are willing to work all day for room&board, so they will always have an interesting life story.

What makes Ironwood special is the hosts Barbara, Bryne (and Barbara's Mom, Oma, a life-force in her own right and the maker of desserts to die for). They have hosted 500-600 Wwoofers over the years, This means that every week or so they introduce another 3-4 people into the extended Ironwood family. People from all over the world, speaking many different languages, with different cultural backgrounds and life experiences. How cool is that? Barbara and Bryne work harder than anyone I have ever met and yet are also 2 of the coolest, accepting, attentive people I have met as well. Their organic farm may get smaller over the years, but I certainly hope that they continue to host Wwoofers for many years to come.

Being at Ironwood is really a life-changing experience. If you are a traveller, you are looking for something. You can find it at Ironwood.

Grouse Grind

2009-07-29T15:10:00.004-03:00

Just spent the last few days in Vancouver, visiting an old friend (Jim McDougall) that I knew from high school. We also lived together in Halifax and on a kibbutz in Israel back in the 70's. Man, time just keeps moving doesn't it? On Monday, I had the day to myself, so figured to just walk from downtown Vancouver to Stanley park, and then maybe over the Lion's Gate bridge. It was a gorgeous, sunny day, if a tad warm (as in extended heat wave in the mid-30's). The walk went well and I ended up on Capilano Road, trying to sneak into see the famous bridge ($30 to walk a bridge not on my list of tourist activities). I walked up to Capilano River Park and hiked down (way down) to the water for a bracing swim, then tried to brook my way back to the infamous bridge. Not a lot of luck there. The water was low, but not that low. There were a few cross-chasm walking bridges in the Park, so I contented myself with that.

Back on the road, I made my way up to Grouse Mountain and decided to the Grouse Grind just had to be done. I had been walking 4-5 hours by then, and it was now 1:30 PM. Great time for a gruelling hike, wouldn't you say?

The first 20+ minutes were fun. Steep, but not deadly, and there was shade. I figured I'd soon see the 1/2 way mark. Well, I saw a sign, but it was the 1/4 mark, which also marked the end of the 'soft' climbing. Yowsa! It was time to hunker down, slow down and start rationing the water. The hike got brutal and just stayed that way right till the end. The middle section wiped that little smile right off my face.

Lots of people on the Grind that day. Could see 1/2 dozen people ahead and behind me most of the way up. A delicious cold Coke at the top costs $3. I had already decided that I would pay $10 if that is what it cost.

All in all, a stupid Gonzo thing to do on a seriously hot day. I suffered for the next 24 hours, no doubt about it. That being said, telling people that you hiked from downtown Vancouver to the top of Grouse Grind has a certain cachet...in my mind at least.

Judy Norbury

2009-07-23T15:01:00.006-03:00

I just finished my first week of Wwoofing. It was a very cool experience. Working outside all day, every day, eating healthy, basic food (some of it from the garden), meeting new people, adjusting to life on the road. The last time I did anything like this, I was in Israel working on a kibbutz. Same idea, you work for room&board. Of course, I was a lot younger then and didn't have so many habits. It is good to break out of the slowly hardening mold my life has been in the past few years.

I spent the last few months reading about Afghanistan, Pakistan and the Sahara and have just started getting into India (thinking I might just have to go there). Wouldn't you know it, Judy was born there and had written a book about it. Her mother had moved there with her husband and they had lived a magical life with a big house and quite a few servants. The book was a fascinating read. To be reading about someone's life as you live with them is a unique experience. Both Judy and Ross had been back to India a few times.

It was a great week. Judy celebrated her 60th birthday. Lots of family and friends visited. I joined Ross for his weekly peace rally in Courtenay and really enjoyed helping them work on their property.

The picture above says a lot. Ross is a bicycle designer, Judy is in a wheelchair. A very cool couple.

Let your freak flag fly

2009-07-15T13:39:00.005-03:00

3 days of music, fun and sun! What a great way to spend a weekend. I've been in B.C. almost 2 weeks. Stayed a few days with Becky and family in Victoria, then up to Courtenay to visit Michelle, spend a few days with brother Jon in Comox, see Jo-Anne and family and back to Michelle's to start checking out Woofing farms.

Michelle was lucky enough to scrounge weekend passes to the Vancouver Island Music Fest. We spent all day Saturday there, checking out various artists, doing a bit of shopping, eating and swimming. It was hot, damn hot! The weather was gorgeous all weekend. I went there Friday afternoon and was there all weekend except to sleep at Michelle's. I absorbed everything I could. Would have camped there if possible. There were musicians from all over the world and I still only saw 1/2 of them. This means that I could have gone to the festival and had just as an amazing time, seeing completely different bands. Too cool!

The event was extremely well organized. It's the festival's 15th year and there has obviously been quite a bit of talent behind the scene for those years. Everything just worked. The crowd ran the gamut from babies to aging hippies and everyone was in a mellow, friendly mood.

An amazing weekend. A special memory. Hey! I got to see Arlo and Los Lobos. Jim Byrnes and Eric Bibb. Wow! So much fantastic music.

Ready...Set...JUMP!

2009-07-01T13:29:00.007-03:00

The planning is all done, the job is gone, the homestead is as stable as I can get it, Regina is ready to take over the running of the house and I am on my way! Who knows what the next 6-12 months will bring. One thing you can be sure of...it will not be the steady job/paycheck, cubicle-based lifestyle of the last few decades.

Christmas this year may see my nuclear family spread across the globe. Regina might be in New York for a visit, Emily might have moved from Florida to California, Sophie may well be in Korea and I will hopefully still be on the road, maybe still in New Zealand.

I have a bit of $$ that fell out in the retirement process, my health is an asset and my headspace is ready to see more of the world. I'm ready!

B.C. / New Zealand Packing list

2009-06-16T20:27:00.024-03:00

I'm heading off to British Columbia in 2 weeks. I'll be there visiting relatives and Wwoofing until mid-September, which will be early spring in New Zealand. The knapsack I take to BC goes to NWZ, so the packing has begun in earnest. I'm sending the list to a few gear-bare keeners. If you have a comment or opinion about the list, please let me know. I can argue gear lists all day. The knapsack is what I'm wearing in the blog profile picture.

The pack will weigh 8-9 kgs out the door, everything inside the pack, including water and day-food. Basically it's 2-3 sets of clothes, rain gear, spare shoes and the ability to sleep outside in NWZ seasonal weather (down to 8-10 C) and hopefully handle a bit of rain. I only intend to be sleeping on the ground here and there as circumstances dictate.

The plan is to fly to Auckland, hitch-hike up to the top of North Island (Cape Reinga) and start walking, hostelling and Wwoofing the 1000+ kilometers to Wellington. Drop in and visit Bob Russell for a few days. Then down to South Island and Sue Green's sister for a few days, then a bit of tourist action in Milford Sound. Then the decision is return to Canada or keep flying West --- Vietnam, India and/or South Africa on my way to visit David Young in Botswana and Brian MacDougall in Egypt. If I get that far, it's maybe Israel, but Ireland for sure, then home.

Nice simple plan, not a lot of logistics. Nothing booked in advance. Everything electronic and stored in some Google app. Carrying a GSM quad-band cell phone if someone needs to get hold of me. Will check messages every few days. I'll keep this blog up-to-date every few weeks, tho not with pictures from my camera. Too techie.

CARRYING

40 liter knapsack
Small waist pouch for camera

KNAPSACK

Sleeping bag Primaloft .5 kg MEC overbag
Sleepmat Thermarest .25 kg Shoulders-to-Hips, self-inflating
Tarp/poncho (8'x5' silnylon)
Drybag (15 liter silnylon) for knapsack contents
Drybag (10 liter good quality) for clothes and electronics
Drybag (1 liter plastic) for travel books and documents
Daybag (10 liter shapeless nylon)

KITCHEN / FOOD

Spoon, breadknife, can opener
Water bottle .5 liter \ Expanding 1 liter
Multi-vitamins
1 day of light food (apple, cheese, chocolate, nuts, bread)

CLOTHES

Rain shell / Pants
Black jacket / Green light fleece / Tights
Poly skull cap / Poly gloves / Poly hats (2)
Bathing suit / Mini-towel
Wool socks (2) / Poly socks (2)
Techie tops (3) / Nylon shorts (2)
Sleep top/shorts / Cotton underwear (3)
Sandals / Sneakers

MEDICAL

Moleskin, Band-aids, alcohol gel, compression wrap, gauze, tape
Murine, asthma inhaler, Ibuprofen, pumice
Poly-Sporin, Gravol, Chlorine tablets, tweezers, scissors

TOILETRIES

Toothbrush/paste, floss, vaseline, sun lotion, chapstick
Toilet paper, hair soap, deodorant, nail clippers

ELECTRONICS

Cell phone/charger/battery-backup (buy local charger there)
Watch, wrist compass, LED flashlight, whistle, plastic mirror
Camera, Memory chips, USB memory stick
Single cell AAA radio, batteries (2 AAA, 4 AA)

DOCUMENTS

Map, travel book, hostel lists, glasses/spare, pen/pencil
Diary, family photos, photocopies of passport and drivers license, spare passport pics, Passport, MSI card, Blue Cross, Intl and NS driver licence, Vaccine record,
Pictures of all documents stored in Gmail

REPAIR

Therma-rest repair, needle/thread, duct tape
Safety-pins, velcro, cable-ties

A time for all things

2009-06-14T13:21:00.009-03:00

I just spent 2 weeks in New York with my in-laws. My 93 year-old father-in-law was dying in the hospital and the family was doing as much as possible to provide support, as my 79 year-old mother-in-law spent every day, all day in the hospital. I spent the 4 of the first 5 days in the hospital. The off day was spent upstate with the brother-in-law and his menagerie. My father-in-law passed just before Jewish Shabbat, finally getting some peace after 2 months in the hospital attached to the cold, impersonal tools of medicine.

If you don't have a living will, write one up today. Mine is nothing fancy:

Do not resuscitate if quality of life implies permanent unconscious state or persistent vegetative state
Do not keep alive if this requires extraordinary medical support
If in doubt, pull the plug

Lots of people flew in for the funeral, which happens asap. I was very glad that both my kids made it in time. Then the family 'sits Shiva' for a week and gets some closure.

Most of my time when I visit NY is taken up with family and making sure I see all the grandkids, nieces and nephews. I try to clear off at least one full day for myself. This trip was for 2 weeks, so I got in 2 full "New York" days. I also got in a bit of running and many, many kilometers of walking. As usual, I ate more than required and drank a fair bit of beer.

My 'New York' days go like this: up and out the door before 6:00 AM, breakfast in the city at my latest diner (currently the Seinfield diner at Broadway and 112th St., formerly the Roxy on John St. down by the World Trade site). Absorb a local paper and mucho coffee. Start the ongoing vigil for access to bathrooms (parks, fast-food places, bars, big book and grocery stores). I do a LOT of walking (8-10 hours worth), a little shopping, maybe a museum and for sure a few parks. Lunch involves pizza or pastrami and a beer, as does supper. I almost always get to either the East River or the Hudson, Times Square and Washington Park, As well, I almost always take in a concert or ball game and return to Queens after midnite.

This trip, I got to see Amadou & Miriam at Webster Hall. It was an amazing show. A husband and wife from Mali, both blind. I missed them when I was in Dublin in 2006 (all sold out, I hung around for hours trying to get a rush seat), so bought the ticket early in the day. I chose this over baseball at the new Yankee stadium.

I finally got to walk the new High Line elevated park in the meat-packing district of Manhattan. This made me very happy indeed. I have been following its development for years. It is a good example of what really talented people can do with a public space. New York is filled with so many beautiful parks. Another new one for me this trip was Morningside just above Central Park.

I also got to see game 7 of the hockey finals (yea Pittsburgh) by dropping into my brother-in-law's firehouse in the Bronx. Dropping in is a bit of a misnomer. It took 1.5 hours to get there and more than 2 hours to get back. This also meant that I missed getting to a baseball game this trip and both teams had new stadiums. Such is life.

An emotionally draining trip. Good to see so much family, altho the occasion was a sad one.

Hobo...with a cell phone!

2009-05-14T19:43:00.022-03:00

OK. I walked to PEI. Some 280+ kms of walking in 7 days, which works out to about a marathon a day on foot with a pack on your back. There was more pain than I expected and less bother about being uncomfortable. Pain became a constant companion somewhere in the middle of Day 2 and has not left me yet. What parts hurt? Basically, every thing that moved, carried weight or touched anything else. My mantra was...

Keep Walking
Just Keep Walking

Whenever one set of pains would lessen, a new one would start up or an old one flare up. As the days accumulated, so did the list of aches and pains. All in all, a very painful exercise. Much more pain that I anticipated.

My concerns about being uncomfortable (ie: rain, being wet all the time, nights on the ground with no cover) were over-rated. You can only get so wet and so uncomfortable in this particular set of circumstances. This would be in contrast to the pain which developed into so many levels it becaime a mental battle as well as a physical one.

I'm going to do up a Gonzo web page story with more details to suit my requirements, but for now, it's the blog entry, some detail and the trip video, which shows a fair bit of pain etched into my facial features.

Walk to PEI - 280+ kms, 7 days, 6 nights, 3 in motel, 3 on ground, rain every day&night.

Halifax to Elmsdale - 41 kms, dinner at pub, sleep under bridge
Elmsdale to Truro - 51 kms, dinner Chinese, sleep in motel
Truro to Earltown - 35 kms, dinner beans, sleep in woods
Earltown to Tatamagouche - 21 kms, dinner Chinese, sleep in motel
Tatamagouche to Port Philip - 45 kms, dinner beans, sleep under tree
Port Philip to Port Elgin - 43 kms, no dinner, sleep in motel
Port Elgin to Bridge - 28 kms, dinner at Mom's, sleep in nice bed

Used Rogers cellphone where it worked....Called Sophie for her birthday, let Regina know where I was, let my Mom know where I was and when I was coming, had Bruce Duffy to share my experience with. Glad I had the phone. Nice to book a motel not having to show up like drowned rat at the only motel within 50 kms and you're on foot. Hard to haggle a decent off-season price. All in all a great tool to have in your backpack.

My self-indulgent writeup on the Gonzo site: Hey! My scrotum is wet!!!

Following is a little 2:18 minutes video with 7 little clips embedded:

Walk to PEI

2009-04-15T14:28:00.012-03:00

Being unable to swing the details to spend my 1st 3 weeks retired walking the Appalachian Trail, I have opted to walk the 250+ kms from my house in Halifax, NS to the Confederation Bridge, PEI. Sounds simple enough. Nice, laid back secondary roads, fair amount of stores, gas stations and motels along the way, early spring weather.

I'm bringing a 9 kg pack with a winter-weight sleeping bag, mat, rain gear and change of clothes, plus a cell phone and camera (for all the highlights).

My sleeping places will be a few motels and your basic on the ground in a sleeping bag.

Why am I doing this? I want to break the mental tie from a 23-year career job, see how my body handles everyday distance walking and see just how uncomfortable I'm willing to be at my advanced age. When I did this stuff in my 20's, the ability to be uncomfortable made a whole lot of other options that much simpler. I have to be a lot tougher than I am currently to do the sort of travelling I want to do in New Zealand (Walk and Wwoof my way from North to South for at least 1000 kms).

This trip will be a good test of my gear setup, my headspace and my aging parts. The 'on the ground' conditions will be a good test of all the mental mojo.

Everything else fits inside a 40 liter bag (the blue one showing in my profile picture.) Weight is 9 kgs with .5 liter water, 1 day food and a few morning porridges and hot chocolates.

GEAR

40 liter knapsack
Waist pouch for camera, map and change
15 liter waterproof liner bag
Cat's Meow winter-weight poly sleeping bag
Self-inflating mat
Cell phone, watch, camera, 1-cell radio
Compass, whistle, foil blanket, multi-tool, candle
Map, book, glasses, pen/pencil, Therma-rest repair
Rope, cable-ties, sewing kit
Water bottle (.5 liter) and chlorine tablets

KITCHEN / FOOD

Butane/propane stove, pots, gas, matches
Cup, spoon, knife, can opener, scrubber
4-5 packets of porridge, tea
Multi-vitamins
1 day of food (apple, pasta or soup, chocolate, nuts, bread)

CLOTHES

Body - Hat, t-shirt, shorts, socks and boots
Rain shell, pants, gaiters
Sandals
Tights
Skull cap and balaclava
Bathing suit and towel
2 poly hats, light & dark
2 wool socks and 1 poly liner
2 poly gloves
2 spare tops (short and long)
2 underwear

MEDICAL / TOILETRIES

Band-aids, moleskin, alcohol gel, compression wrap, Vitamin I
Gauze, tape, Murine, asthma inhaler
Toothbrush/paste, floss, vaseline, sun lotion, toilet paper

Walkin' Down the Road

2008-12-07T15:33:00.009-04:00

Well, here it is. When I turned 50, I decided that I had to change the track of my life. My kids were getting all grown up, my wife and I had agreed to separate after 25 years. I had been working at Dal for 18 years. It was time to start thinking about how I wanted to spend the next 25 years of my life. No real plan in place, just the thought that since you only go through this life once, I had some ideas in my head that needed some serious consideration.

I am now 54, and about to turn 55 in a few months. I have made a formal announcement of my retirement plans from Dal and have spent the last year or so working on the house, with an eye to leaving it in my wife's care for 6 months to a year.

well, I'm walkin' down the road with my hat on my head
had to leave my mama in my big brass bed
well, sun is shinin' on me and you know it sure feels fine

The basic plan is to go out West and see my brother and sister for a few months, hopefully generating some $$$ by planting trees for the summer. More than likely, I will fly to New Zealand using an around-the-world ticket through Star Alliance. This will use up a major portion of my available funds, so needless to say, I will be working most of the time that I am away.

When I was younger, I always figured that a person needed 3 things to travel when they were older (time, money, health). Since then, I have added one more requirement (mobility). I have spent my last 3 vacations in Ireland, Vancouver Island and Cuba. In each case, I walked, not just to get somewhere, but as a big part of my recreation. I have put in over 500 miles this year, just walking to and from work

I hope to spend a good 6 months in New Zealand, working on WWOOFing farms. After that, it's really up in the air. Hopefully, I'll get to Botswana to see David Young and Cairo to see Brian MacDougall. And of course, back to Ireland.

The themes I want running through my life are simplicity, serendipity and synchronicity. What does all that mean? I'm working on it.

I hope to use this blog to track my travels. Just how online I want to be while travelling is still really up in the air. I've been online since the concept existed and I use the Internet like people use a phone. It is a very cool time to be connected. But it has a cost, in time and in headspace. We shall see.